Yes, the one I got some old concrete dust in was the one which has the chunk missing on it.

the pump unit second from the end look like it has rust marks or pitting on the taper and definite rust on the end of the fitting clean it up with a bit of 600 wet n dry sandpaper.
to stop grit going inside put a dab of grease in the bottom or a greased cotton tip. and just to be sure there clean i would bar the engine over with the lines off the pumps so the flush clean(after gravity bleeding to the pump so it has fuel) also clean the threads you dont want any galling or they wont seal properly a drop of light machine oil on the threads is a good idea so they tighten smoothly.

and when you install the new drive shaft seal smear the seal/housing mating surfaces with a little grease or aviation no3 form-a-gasket this will help it go in better and seal better.
a seal driver is the proper tool but a socket of the right OD can be used (slightly smaller) make sure you start it square and keep it that way or the seal can be damaged. and grease the working surfaces lightly to help them seal it also prevents damage when placing on the shaft

bearing puller worked ... had to use the towel trick though ... getting the new seal in was a little tricky but used a rubber mallet and a disk roughly the size + a little of the seal then when it was close I used a bearing/busshing driver to seat it flush against the interior facing. Fits like a glove.

Going to try to reinstall it tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

Got the transfer pump back on, new rubber seals, was going to attach the governor but ran out of time ... that said I found this

The missing hose barb, I am assuming that is what it is called, was on the rusted injector ... not sure how this "worked" before ...

Are there replacements for these injector lines and if there is do I need the injector tool to replace them?

i'll bet that missing piece is up inside the nut. if it doesn't leak use it

bursitis wrote:

i'll bet that missing piece is up inside the nut. if it doesn't leak use it
 

It was indeed, and it was broken into 3 parts ...

stuff I did today

1. Reinstalled the fuel injector pump housing ... twice ... the first time in installed it the gasket was missing (was distracted buy the weight of the thing ... I swear it is like 80 lbs) and the second time I got the timing mechanism (bottom) lined up right as it had shifted when I re-installed the transfer pump.
2. Bleed machine ... was tricky ... but I made it work solo with my "in seat" starting option. 
3. Ran machine for 40ish minutes ... and it still has the same issue it did before (low power and loosing power to move after 30 minutes). 

After I ran into the "existing issue" i previously had post installation I did the following. 

1. Noted when the machine doesn't  want to move or push the engine RPM does not decrease 
2. Checked oil in engine, it seemed thin / clear as it was recently replaced since I had diesel in the oil ... I couldn't smell any diesel but I suspect it might have been over filled ... was trying to drain a little off through the filter drain (which the oil there looked "normal" ) to see if I could get the mark down to "full" on the stick.
3. Filled the rear two drive gear locations with TO ... together they ate up 2 gallons (they have leaks each in different spots, one on the skid plate the other from the seal likely being blown out for the drive gear. 
4. Noted RPM, when I started it was slightly below where it was when it was previously running (and still bad) and slowly dropped a little over time after running a while. 
5. The machine would idle with governor all the way down, but it was rougher than I remember. 
6. After running it to the point where it could barely move I noticed smoke coming from dip stick for motor when I pulled it. 
7. When I idled down and opened the oil fill location for the motor there was air coming out ... didn't smell like exhaust but clear pressurized air. If I increased engine speed it was harder to notice. 
8. clutch was full, as well as trans before I started, no change after I shut off later. 
9. Belt up front seemed a little loose, forgot to check it for slack, engine never overheated, oil always kept pressure up. 

So those are my current symptoms which somehow relate to the machine loosing power over time and not having 100% power after starting. If I had to guess it was near or less than 1/4th power compared to previous experience. 

Machine is in NH if anyone is willing to look at it, I can pay if costs are reasonable. I am near the point where I am going to have to sell the machine as is and pick up a working machine as my projects have to go on ... and I really don't want to give up on Brutus after experiencing just how well he can work when he is at his best >__< 

Thoughts? 
 

Some things I am thinking of checking / doing.

1. Replace fuel filters ... for the fourth time now.
2. Replace gauge with something like the Holley Performance 26-502 Gauge Fuel Pressure, so I can trust it (0-6 red, 6-10 white, 15 center green)
3. Drain and replace engine oil, and filter, again.
4. Check weight on clutch lever.
5. When machine starts to bog down remove clutch cover and observe clutch movement while using machine.
6. Check fan belt tension (it isn't overheating but can't hurt) Replace if it doesn't seem like a PITA
7. Figure out a way to test PSI going from fuel pump to injector for each injector.
8. replace the plunger spring on the transfer pump if PSI is low
9. pull injectors, clean, and reinstall with new gasket each.

Thinking of ways to isolate / test systems to see which system, when it is heated up, is failing ... I am assuming at this point there is a bad component which is made worse when the machine is warmed up fully.