Would you have cleaned out the fuel tank? there should be a screen in the the fitting inside the tank (if my thoughts are correct), my D2 seat tank outlet fitting screen was blocked, I gave it some gentle compressed air to clean from outside and checked with light shining into tank fitting and heard rust rattle around, check if tank tap is fully on when removed (position of valve will help when you can see it), check tank filler cap does breathe in so not to make vacuum in tank over time stalling rpm, check supply line for kinks? may have blockage?. Does the engine stall/slowly die when not trying to move machine or only when trying to drive etc?I would aim for check fuel supply (then pressure), the gauges on both of my machines run in different ranges on gauge, they both load up and keep pushing with a touch of black only, the only drama I have is a bit of air after filter change. I hope this may help?

The tank is pretty spotless inside, very shiny and clean. I did use the drain last year to clear out debris but didn't get any. I have not removed the valves though as I don't like bleeding the system solo since I have in seat controls. Got better at it recently though. When I do my next set of replacements I will triple check the tank and valves.

Filter cap does breathe, I forget when or how I checked it but its good as I do remember checking it.

RPM doesn't really stall / slowly die over time. The short of it, the machine went from pushing piles as big as it, to half that, to 1/4 that, to just being able to back drag over the course of a month or two. After 30 minutes of either of those activities at the time the machine can't move. RPM stays UP and doesn't drop down when trying to move.

Ok, if rpm stays up and no movement machine may need clutch adjustment/attention? I know my 6U has a dry clutch and can be adjusted, I don't know if yours is dry or wet clutch type? Wet type is an unknown to me. Sounds more like clutch issue if rpm are good and no/little power in movement of machine. I think if you took off clutch cover you may smell burnt clutch if dry type or possibly black oil if oil/wet style, I hope some can shed some light on the wet clutch for you if it is.

Correct, When the machine gets to a point where it "gives up" moving the RPM doesn't drop when I throw it into gear

I will look up the clutch adjustment. I think the only thing I did in the past was adjust the braking action to be in spec and ensure the pull weight was in spec when cold. Looking back at page 6 I see I tested the pull at 20-25 ... I think this is suppose to be 35 but will double check.

adjust the main clutch, if the problem still persists, adjust the steering clutches, and if that doesn't work it might be time to replace the main clutch. Good luck with your problems.

projectanavita wrote:

 took cover off and watched engagement when pulling back clutch ... it does engage at 35lbs so shifting to fuel 

funny to quote myself ... 

Was reading previous posts and the book on adjusting the clutch. It seems what I am looking for is engagement and a "distinct snap feeling" mid way through the pull (over center is what the book said as the clutch enters the engaged position) ...

yes very correct, to tight you can't get it over the snap, just right will snap in

Replaced the gauge with one which has numbers ... it is a lot more sensitive and bounces in a range ... but it has numbers 17-20 psi on full throttle. 13-14 maybe on half throttle .

Took clutch cover off to adjust ... and completely forgot this clutch looks nothing like the tractor manual adjustment ...

Wasn't really sure how to adjust this as the mechanisms seemed different. So I adjusted the two rods (center and bottom left) to allow for minim clearance on the clutch engage and good action on the stop. Always fickle doing those as the pins are "fun" to remove.

Took him for a spin and it seemed i could push 1/4th a load which is possibly better than before ... that said, after 1 hour of running the machine and doing a little work it was back to not wanting to move.

Other things I noticed, small kink in the coper pipe feeding the fuel ... cross section not changed.
When I would throttle down to mid throttle the motor would throttle down then 2 seconds later make a small throttle up and back down ... that was first time I have experienced that. I did record it and will have to upload it later.

When the machine was not responding to drive commands I noted temperatures around the machine using my thermal camera. Nothing over 180. Center of radiator had more heat than outsides. top of radiator was ~140, bottom 110 I think.

Radiator

, (not sure if it needs cleaned yet)

Clutch housing and motor oil pan same temps

Clutch and oil temps same

that is a wet clutch. make sure you have the correct oil in the clutch housing and follow the instructions to adjust the type of clutch you have. you may find it better to access the adjustment from the side cover under the machine? there is a special tool for clutch adjusting that works great but same can be accomplished with an extension and wobble socket