Hi Bursitis,
Sorry to burst your bubble, on an oil clutch there is no cover on the underneath, all the adjustment is done through the top and there is a special tool for the adjustment, the one you are talking about is for a dry clutch. There are two tabs (as in the picture one shown) that needs undoing slightly then turn the plate dont not loose them because it becomes a nightmare to recover. 


 

Regards
 

that injection line can be remade if you go to somewhere like enzed or pirteck some injection joints could make you a new one take the old one an the broken bits for them to copy.

How do you rotate the flywheel to find the adjusting nut. Just found the section on wet clutch adjustment and it seems to be LBS based ... I can't see how the arm adjustments I made would adversely affect it though so that is good. 

EDIT: Page 100 of the CAT D4 6U 7U Operations and Maintenance Instructions

The proper clutch adjustment will give a clutch lever pull of approximately 35 pounds. This measurement is made with a spring scale placed at the bottom of the handle on the clutch control lever with the engine stopped and when the clutch is cold. Slightly higher pounds pull may be required when the clutch is warm. Clutch lever pull will reduce when the engine is running, however when the clutch is properly adjusted the lever should go into the engaged position with a distinct snap. The clutch adjustment should be checked every 500 service hours and adjusted if necessary. 

It then shows the clutch cover (one with fill cap next to oil level stick) off, and the locknuts / adjusting ring looking through the cover to the front of the tractor. I did see the tab you pointed to the other day Daryl through the same location. 

What gets me is this step: 

Turn the flywheel until one of the adjustment nuts (2) is accessible. Loosen the nut about two turns. Tap plate slightly to be sure it is free on stud. Rotate flywheel 180 degrees and loosen the other locking nut in same manner.

It doesn't describe how to "turn the flywheel" ... 

I don't think I see that plate screw highlighted ... I see the bolt to the right of where it should be and that spring screw thing but not what you have shown in your picture Daryl.

That is not the correct adjustment for an oil clutch, there are two tabs with 3/8" nuts on them opposite sides of the clutch plate ring, loosen those and turn the inner plate until the correct lever pull is obtained, retighten nuts. Use 30W drive train oil for the clutch.

what bubble?  good info on the oil clutch though. thanks

Rome wrote:

That is not the correct adjustment for an oil clutch, there are two tabs with 3/8" nuts on them opposite sides of the clutch plate ring, loosen those and turn the inner plate until the correct lever pull is obtained, retighten nuts. Use 30W drive train oil for the clutch.

All the oils I use are in spec for the machine so good there. 

Is there a trick to rotate the clutch plate / clutch plate ring? Does it rotate freely both directions or only one? 

You need one of these,
www.ebay.com/itm/115228418043?hash=item1...b:g:zGYAAOSwXzBh9f4a

Found the thing pointed out by Daryl. .. 9/16 bolts. .. its pretty tight. Can wrench it through the opening but still unsure how to rotate the fly to get other side loose

Rome, I have three manuals. .. op., Diesel, and tractor ... dont recall seeing how to rotate flywheel in there