Trying to loosen that small plate bolt and the flywheel turned. .. feel like an impact hammer would be nice but at least I felt force required to move flywheel

Live update 3?
Bolt on yellow painted face, 3/4", is helping me turn flywheel. .. have a universal joint on 1/2 drive and it is slow going but working

Man it would be nice if these diagrams were updated. .. not sure what is the adjusting ring or how to turn it lol

I assume it is the thing with the inner gears but idk. ..

OK edit

3/8 drive and pivot wench. .. put socket head into the teeth facing in toward the center and rotate works

finally 

Hi,
I see you have worked out how to adjust the inner ring, good work. I am including the photo which show the direction the inner ring is to turn for future references as Rome K/G says till the handle snaps over at 35llb.

 

Mine needs adjustment again as it was built out of parts from 3 different machines.

Good luck on your endeavours.

 

Thank you sir, saves me time of posting a lesser quality image.
I see your left most notch is also grooved a little I assume from previous adjustments? Mine was a little marred as well.
Only dropped one 5" extension arm + universal joint + 3/4 drive into the clutch well ... once ... was fun getting it out but took less than 20 minutes. Tied a rope to it after that.

I would advise using a 3/8 straight 4-5" extension arm to rotate the adjustment disk .. when you can't do it any more rotate the whole assembly using the 3/4" bolts till you have a new set lined up.

I was testing at 30 lbs at the start ... took a while to get to 35 lbs ... ran the beast and he pushes pretty good now ... didn't test a "full load" but when I hit a stump by random the engine did drop down in rpm like it should if the clutch is working. Also on that note it is hard to "test" the clutch pull ... I must have tested like 10-20 times each adjustment to remove angle issues with the scale.

For rotating the main flywheel (yellow with 3/4 bolts) I found starting at the clutch forward rod mount the 3/4" bolt with universal swivel + 4-5" extension and lever it against the rod till just right of the rod. Then add on a swivel head 12-15" socket wrench, line the whole assembly so the extensions from the wrench are straight on with the bolt, "tighten" the bolt and it should move the wheel another 4-5". From here I pivoted the swivel head back, then moved the uni swivel so it is at an angle of < 45 to the flywheel from left ... and pushed with my hand on the back of the swivel head socket maintaining the angle as I reached where you can't push anymore (8"+) and remove the socket. If I did this the next bolt to latch on to was right at the starting location I started with.

Manual also states to tighten the two clamp nuts to 30 ft lbs torque.

Daryl, i notice you have 4-5 threads on your adjustment plate exposed ... is this "normal?" ... I think mine was largely flush with the flywheel face there.

Rome wrote:

Manual also states to tighten the two clamp nuts to 30 ft lbs torque.

Yeah and that was actually hard to do because it is so little force. I had to back off the nuts twice each to confirm they were set right. I couldn't find my in lbs wrench which is what I should have used for that :/ 

Hi,
Yes mine show that much as it was not completed and just going together. When I finally adjusted it I had about 2 threads showing (2 new discs whet in) as I said before, now it had about 8 hours work and everything has bedded in now.

 
my 7U with our President Steve of Chapter 19 having a go.

Regards

 

That is a big ripper ... I should track down or make the parts required to get my wench working and re-install it ... but have other earth works to do first.

With the adapter ring, and the threads. Is this used as a wear indicator on the clutch? If so at what point does the clutch need to be replaced using this as an indicator? (like if the ring is -1mm into the outer flywheel is it safe to assume the clutch material is gone ... or something like that)