Not sure what Cat used on the D4D's but what you have in your picture looks like the remnants of the old hot rod Rajah spark plug terminal connectors (still available w/google search). Earlier D4's used a collet system.

The others have covered it pretty well Richard, if you want to make valve setting easier, you can set #4 with 1 on the rock and #2 with #3 on the rock and vice-versa.

Had a good day today, replaced the manifold, did the tappets, sorted the glow plug wiring, drained out the engine oil & clutch oil....also drained off the diesel tank - fair bit of black gunge in there.

Came in for my tea and put the dirty overalls out for washing - but forgot to take the digital camera out the pocket.....its now on the stove drying out, but reckon it's had it...good job i took out the insurance

So anyway thanks to everyone (in particular Gordon for sorting the crawler in the first place) for the advice, regards to you all your families

Richard

Just an update of where I have got to.

Made a start getting off the tracks today, as per the instructions above (I think)
The pin came out with quite a bit of persuasion, mind there was a time just before we stopped for a cup of tea when I thought we were in for a long night. Anyway all of a sudden it just flew out.....we thought we had broken the drift and looked in wide-eyed wonderment (with the torch) to see the pin sticking out the other side!

So tomorrow will get the track frame off, then start on the other side.

There are a few broken bolts in the track frame so I see some interesting times ahead removing those!

Now, when the pin came out there were two washers between the links, chamfered on one side.....which way around should they go back?

The equaliser bar - what is to service on them, is there a quick visual check? mind I don't fancy dropping that lump out!

thats looking good richard ,and the rain has stayed away
happy new year
cheers graham

thanks Graham, all the best to you and your family too

Happy New year Richard, rather you than me. the pin becomes 'loose' afte about one inch because it is relieved in the middle so you dont have to drive it all the way. Those chanfered spacers go back with the chamfers facing each other, there should also be two 'belleville' washers behind each spacer, they are actually dirt seals, which fit with the 'small' sides facing eacjh other. To re-assemble, tie the lot in with two pieces of copper wire, as you drive the links togethere with a sledge hammer, the wire should get cut and fall out.
There is not much to the equalizer bar, just check there is not too much wear in any part of it or its retainers.
Don't try and remove the recoil springs, its dangerous, ask for more instruction.
Happy New Year to you and everyone else in Antique Caterpillar Land.

Morning chaps, Richard i will post you some info on removing those recoil springs.
Gordon.

Thats a good idea Gordon, although I reckon that if the springs need to come out it may be best to leave it until the tracks go back on to compress the springs and do up the safety nuts.

Happy New Year to all.

I wasn't planning to take the recoil spring out. I can see its a mother of a thing and see from the manual that you need a hefty press to work with it.

On the L.H. side it had worked up in the front because the idler had worn its nose in to the rail. So what I did was before removing the tracks was to jack it back down in to its place then weld a small piece of steel on the bracket to prevent it slipping right out.
The reason for this is the l.h. idler is quite badly worn and I was planning to send it off with the rollers for reconditioning. Once its off there is nothing anchored to keep that spring down in place.

I will admit there's a lot of corrosion on the frames around the spring area but I have been at it with the air-chisel and it still appears to be structurally sound enough to support the springs.

Both frames are off now, all the rollers are off one frame and this afternoon I'm going to drop the others off.....then will begin the highly amusing job of removing the snapped bolts!.....those that came out good I have already run a 5/8 unc tap down the frame threads.
I noticed on the r.h. frame the dowels in the frame near the final drives are missing.

One thing I noticed in the parts book they never write the thread size or bolt dimensions - obviously for good reason, but would be useful to know.

The back roller and the middle are diff. to the other three, I am guessing they are single flanges. Also on one side of the mounting surface there is a plate which lodges up in the roller body, the otherside nothing....is there a right and wrong way to install them?

Having priced it up I am planning to send them to Frank Medforth for reconditioning, he says he can turn them around fairly quickly and I MUST have this project done by Jan 18th before I go back to work.

Catsilver - have you had any experiences with Curwoods in Exeter?