"catsilver" wrote:

You can't recon the injectors, only test them, then throw away, if they spray OK and don't dribble, they are probably OK, if you have any doubts or they put compression gases back through the injector line, throw them away.


Good Luck.

Thanks Catsilver.

Someone was saying that there are three diff. size shim/sealing washers for the injector nozzles, they alter the depth of the nozzle in relation to the glow plug.....I aven't pulled them out, but if they have been compressed is it easy to determine which one of the three sizes....likewise if i were to put new injectors in how would i know which size to select?

"Gordon." wrote:

Hello Richard, the plugs either side of the back end drain are in the steering clutch housings these are dry compartments. The final drives can leak inwards although a minor leak is probably best left alone as its quite a job to lift out the cross shaft and clutches. The final drives on your machine are better with 80/90 or even 85/140.
Regards Gordon.

Thanks Gordon. I have got 80/90 to go in there....tomorrow's job.

The picture is coming together, the f/d oil on the r.h. side looked 'fresher' than the l.h. so it indicates to me, as you said, the seal is leaking inwards.

Next job will be to whip the diesel tank off and rinse it out. Also looks like there's a crack about 3/4 way up about 3" long.....what's the best way to repair, drill a hole at the end of the cracks then braze it up?

Pulled a new manifold off J Moores for a good price....certainly a LOT less than the original








one final point; valve adjustment - exhaust .028 (cold) inlet .017 (cold), any specific sequence to do them in?

I'm not so familiar with the 330 eng but if you get No 1 on TDC (No 4 valves on the rock) You should be able to adjust valves 123 & 5 turn the engine clock wise until No 4 is on TDC then adjust 4 6 7 & 8 Valves. The 3304 has a bolt hole in the flywheel 3/8 unc and a bolt can be screwed in to ensure the crank is in the right position i think the 330 is the same. The glow plugs don't protrude into the cylinders they screw into the combustion chambers. The spacers stroke gaskets are used to ensure the glow plug is situated in the optimum position for correct combustion... I do stand to be corrected !!
Gordon

the PC chamber seals/spacers are different thicknesses so you can adjust the chamber so that the glowplugs don't interfere with the injector lines and so the wiring harness will hook up. Basically, when looking at the PC chamber from the side of the engine the chambers are on, the glow plug hole should be between 8 and 2 o-clock when you get it torqued to 150 foot-pounds.

The glowplug position in the chamber is fixed in relation to the injector when the hole was drilled for the plug. Rotating the chamber wouldn't change anything about that and the ignition of the fuel etc.

CCj, i agree, i was remembering the pretty coloured diagram in the manuals of the 3304 engine and thinking it was a temp thing. I have, beleive it or not, fitted quite a few in the past.
Richard.... if you keep the chambers in order and measure the gasket thickness on each when removing you should be able to just replace them with the correct sizes. The chamber has a white high temp O ring and the nozzle nut has an O ring too. A little anti sieze compound on the threads and nozzle is a good idea also a little liquid soap on the chamber O'ring helps when fitting too. I will send you the part numbers of what you need, do you need a parts book ?
Gordon.

Thanks CC & Gordon.

I've got an old parts bk for the 78A which apparently is more or less the same.

I think I've understood it to mean that the diff. thickness spacer means that it will reach its final torque at different positions and as mentioned keep the glow plug wiring away from the injector pipe.
Perhaps I will do the tappets first and see how it goes.

Right, tonight's brain teaser....how exactly should the glow-plug wire connect to the plug?
As you can see this one seems to rely on being clamped to the terminal end.....to my mind this is not ideal....what should it be?

....and removing belly pans is a fun job, ehhh?

Richard, the connector you show is not complete. There should be a sleeve with slots in it that surrounds the teminal you have shown. The prongs are sprung and with the sleve the prongs push down on top of the glow plug, like a spark plug. You can get them separately but i think cat will only supply the whole assembly. Support the belly pans with a trolley jack undo the bolts then lower them and pull out.
Gordon.

Thanks Gordon.

Looking in the parts book it describes a 'Terminal' 2M5301, now the glow plug (9M5708) can it be replaced without taking out the injector?

What I'm thinking is that the connectors and terms. on top the plugs are none to chipper, maybe worthwhile to replace them

Richard - You can only purchase the entire glow plug harness that sits across the top of the head, from Cat. The glowplugs just screw out, no need to remove precoms .. but they are generally very tight, particularly if the last installer never put any anti-seize on the threads. Always install new glowplugs with plenty of nickel anti-seize .. the next bloke who has to remove them, will thank you, instead of cursing you ..

Each glow plug should draw 5 amps when working, so the amp meter on the dash should show 20 amps draw when switched to the "heat" position, and all the glow plugs are functioning correctly.
If a glowplug is faulty, there will be a corresponding 5 amp reduction in amperage draw for every faulty glowplug (i.e. - an amp meter showing 10 amps will mean that there's two faulty glowplugs. You can test glowplugs individually for amperage draw, just by connecting power via an amp meter.

The connector you show is barely making proper contact. The connector fits on the glowplug, inline with the glowplug, and is secured by a boot that is pretty much integral with the harness.
It's important that the connector and harness are secured properly (harness bolted to the rocker cover, and connector and boot securely pushed on, to a clean connection on the glow plug).
The area of the connection usually gets quite grimy and can corrode from moisture and dust, so it's important to have the boot in place, and to ensure that it's properly sealing the connection .. and to ensure that the connector and the end of the glowplug are clean and bright.