"Cysco" wrote:

I ran the part number at www.heavyquip.com and it came back a good number.
Hope that helps ya......Bill

Cheers Bill. Certainly worth a look


RjW

You people are AMAZING!! I'm a new d4d owner. Gonna be needing a lot of help with changing fluids/filters etc in the next few weeks. I'm so glad I found this place. Gotta get me a repair manual ordered. Should I get the parts manual also?

Hello Richard, seems like your going ok with your D4D. They are quite good little tractors these and can still do alot of work.
Alot of them came down to the bottom of the world in NZ and we got them from you guys 88A, the US 78A and japan 91A, all in the 60s. I,ve got a 78A that I have rebuilt everything on except the engine; as it goes ok.
I would suggest before you put the tracks on; that you check the outside sprocket shaft nut is tight, and then check the bearing preloads are tight. The operation and maintence manual tells you how to do this. Drain and check the final drive oil first to check for any toothache.As if thats the case you will have more surgury to do first.The final drives were a weak point on these models and later D4Ds had stronger deadshafts and drive gears.
Cheers Merv

So I'm back home and doing a few jobs with the crawler......in fact getting it ready for a trip to a local vintage show on the weekend.

Anyway, some more brain-teasers......firstly there's a lot of wear on the blade trunnions, so much so that the blade frame hits the tracks near the front.
What is the best way of taking up the the slack?.....I had an idea to get a strip of steel about an inch wide & wrap it around the ball and weld it right around.....but after thinking about it don't think it will be durable enough.....this is what I am up against.....





Secondly, I noticed that if the r.h track is on the lower side on a hill & I reverse the track tries to jump inwards against the frame.....hasn't come off but I am very mindful of it.
Now I had the l.h idler re-rimmed because it was so bad...compared to this one which looked almost reasonable.....with hindsight I am beginning to wish I had done this side as well......do you think this idler looks worn bad enough to cause it to jump......or just need to keep the tracks a tad tighter?

Ball & trunnions are available as a replacement parts.....not all that pricey in the aftermarket.

Hi Team,
a cheap tempory fix for your worn trunions is to grind/machine some metal from the parting faces of the caps to close up the gap a bit.
For the brace arms see if there are any shims left at the ball end caps, if not with some deft grinder work you can face the caps there too until you can get suitable replacements. Pull the caps back and tack weld them to the brace arm for safety and start grinding. I have seen plenty of the ballends builtup with weld as well.
As for the tracks trying to come off all you can do is run them a bit tighter. Your idler looks like it has plenty of ridge height to guide the track chain. Alas worn pins and bushes cause what is known as snakey track which allows the track to snake out of alignment with the rollers etc and therefore derailing. Apart from fitting guiding guards there is not much else to do but be as mindful as you are when turning, slow turns are best.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Richard, been fallowing your post

I recently changed the trunnion balls on my D8 2U and I believe they were around $100 each from Florin. Ya I realize Florin is a long ways away but hopefully you can find some after market in your area.

My balls were pretty easy to cut off but I was careful to direct the torch into the old trunnion and not the trunnion plate.


You should change you push arm ends too so they have a matching fit. My caps were ok so I bought two new caps and welded them to the push arms. A lot easier and cheaper than cutting the trunnion end out of the push arm and replacing it.

Keep on posting

I did a "cheapie" fix on my D4's trunnion and ball situation last year with some strips of plastic cut out of the side of an old plastic barrel. Took the caps off, wrapped the strips around the balls, tightened the caps with an air impact wrench and I'm still running it like that. It's on my list of things to take care of properly. .one of these days/years:lol:

Thanks for the replies fellas!

I think I'll try building it up for the time being, not as if it will have hours and hours of bulldozing ahead of it.

I get what you say about the snaking track, running on level ground its fine but turning you can feel it jump.....I'm reconsidering some of the steeper places brother was asking me to go with it in the unlikely event that it throws a track

Yesterday I reset the tappets because it seemed to have a bit of misfire (isolated to No.2 cylinder after slackening off injector pipes).....they weren't wildly out but it seems to be running smoother now.