Dead right our boys wouldn't lift it Gordon , I'm recovering from the hernia op now! I was going to advise reman, but an old D330 head will be expensive, it would be better to remove and clean it up before deciding on major works.

"Gordon." wrote:

Graham i have to confess i just sent a D6M head to finning for refurb.
Pressure test, valve guide replacement valve fitting and lapping, light skim and injector sleeve replacement, picked up and to be returned £288.00. Rekon your 330 head weighs more than our 3116 so maybe they wont be able to lift it eh Lol
Gordon.

thats a good price gordon ,i may have to enquire about mine

So should be able to focus on the crawler now I have done the brakes on the tractor, finished this evening.

Sorted the starting - 2 new 629 batteries and wings it over a treat.
I see the manifold has a slight hole in it, looked at (so far only looked at) taking it off.....well you can imagine the state of the nuts/studs and by the looks of it it will need to slide out where the fuel pump is located......

Anyone ever successfully 'patched' one in place?

Where is a good place IF I have to replace it? s/h from someone like John Moore or new from Cat classic parts maybe?

Also if I drop the winch off the back (Onions ccu) do I need any kind of blanking plates to put over the exposed orifice?

Hello Richard
Glad to see work progressing well on your machine.If you cant patch the exhaust there are a few firms in this area that may help.
Cheers
Martyn

Hi Richard, when you take the CCU off, Cut a card pattern of the bolts around the PTO hole and make a steel plate to suit.

Hi Richard,
you can get a Cat made cover for the winch shaft hole, if you can't find a second hand one, Catsilvers suggestion is best. John moore would be my first call. You could try Brian at Trodham Plant 01428 751588. Hitchins in Herefordshire have a lot of old gear too. Will dig out a number for you. I would get all the studs nuts etcetera and the Gasket from finning and maybe a second hand manifold from where ever. I think you should get the new rollers fitted get her serviced and then do some hard pushing for a week or two then maybe take some more oil samples.
Gordon.

Right, well finally got it in the workshop this morning.
The winch is off and I have drained the diff oil out.

Now between the big drain diff drainer and the drawbar is one small 1/2" squareplug, I opened that one and the oil that came out didn't look like ep90, more like a STOU, granted this had a reddy/brown colour.....is it poss. for the final drive seal to leak inwards?

What is this for, steering clutches? what should go back in and where do I pour it in?

Also I found a tag on the rear casing
Transmission Group: 4K50 5

What does it mean?


what size hex. keys are these drain/fill plugs?


How do you guys set about recon'ing the injectors, is it the sort of thing a normal fuel injection services could undertake?

Hi Richard,
That smaller plug behind the bevel gear drain is the dry compartment between the steering clutches, no need to refill it! oil can leak in via the F/D pinion seals and the bevel gear shaft seals, it can also be mixed with grease pumped into the steering clutch release bearings.
That hex size is an oddball, the proper spanner is tapered, I suggest getting hold of an old bolt head which nearly fits and grinding a slight taper on it to fit and then weld a bar to it. I can get the part numbe of the proper 1/2" drive tool if you prefer.
You can't recon the injectors, only test them, then throw away, if they spray OK and don't dribble, they are probably OK, if you have any doubts or they put compression gases back through the injector line, throw them away.
The nozzle is only finger tight on its holder.
That transmission group number doesn't mean a lot, just a back-up to the serial number.

Good Luck.

Hello Richard, the plugs either side of the back end drain are in the steering clutch housings these are dry compartments. The final drives can leak inwards although a minor leak is probably best left alone as its quite a job to lift out the cross shaft and clutches. The final drives on your machine are better with 80/90 or even 85/140.
Regards Gordon.

Forgot about the injectors. I now see that Catsilver posted while i was typing, he's covered it. The hex tool is a bit of an awkward thing it tries to twist out if the plugs if they have worn or damaged hex's. Give tight plugs a good level smack with a club hammer it helps to loosen the threads. However dont resort to chiseling them open, thats not the done thing.....Lol.