My Cat dealer shows the spring available $13.40 usd

Rome wrote:

My Cat dealer shows the spring available $13.40 usd

I can see they are available, but cost $36 odd NZD and are only available ex the States (CAT Clayton). CAT NZ would normally charge me $250 to bring that  spring in! So I'm looking to see what else I can find locally secondhand. 

Probably could send one from over here cheaper if you want to wait for it, just a thought.

250 bucks for freight thats rediculous is that express freight?
find out what snail freight is worth.

although the brother posted something years ago from qld to darwin and it cost more than the freight to get it from california in the first place.
there are companies that do transhipping from us postal addresses to australia the brother had one.
might be cheaper to order directly via parts.cat

Hi Markds3,
If you are in no hurry I would order the part as a stock order not a special order it will take 3 or 4 months to get to you as it comes by ship.
I just ordered a race for a 22 flywheel it was a special order and they only charged me $25 dollar extra for express delivery, so I would go back and ask again.

Regards

My friend who has a stash of secondhand D2 parts locally believes he has one so we'll wait and see

Today was a parts cleaning day:
 
And I gave the back end a scrub with degreaser and I'm quite pleased with how the 70+ year old paint has held up! Still need to give the clutch compartmens a further cleaning and I'm planning on popping the top off the transmission tomorrow to give that a sluice out with diesel.
 

Now I have a couple of questions for the experts, and the first one is specifically for Toby to answer, (if he wishes to do so):

The book spec requires 50 to 60 pound inches of rotatational torque to rotate the bevel gear shaft when the bearings are correctly pre-loaded, however you went to 30 pound inches on 5J1113 as you explained that modern bearings aren't the quality the old ones were. I intend to follow this, however, as my pinion is in place (and I won't be removing it) how much extra rotational torque do you think it will add to the bevel gear shaft?

Is it known practice to swap the steering clutches from LH to RH and vice versa to wear the clutch splines on the opposite side? The only reason I ask is that the is a little spline wear on the RHS drum (due to oil getting on the two very outer frictions and making them drag), and swapping these from side to side would mitigae this.
 

Unfortunately there is no way to get a completely accurate rotational torque reading if anything else is being driven by the shaft that you're trying to measure - that said, you do have the option to "swag" it by adding 5-10 more pound-inches to your desired preload setting and call it "close enough" - most likely you'll be fine. Another option is to see if you can un-bolt the bevel gear again and hope that the hub will clear it enough to be able to isolate just the bevel shaft to obtain the preload setting - space is at a premium in there so may not be feasible. But if you can manage it by that method, you would be able to set the desired preload first, then reattach the bevel gear and check tooth contact. Once the preload has been set, so long as you just swap existing shims side-to-side the rotational torque will remain the same.

Swapping the steering clutch hubs and drums side to side certainly won't hurt, as you'll reverse the drive sides of the splines and have fresh surfaces when working in forward gear - also too, remember that with the new bi-metallic discs being thinner and of a higher quantity per pack than the originals, even if you left the hubs and drums on their original sides, most of the disc splines will all be landing in different spots now anyway.