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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
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6 years 9 months ago #178423
by drujinin
Remember I sent you picks of some U series Brake Bands?
Anyways, the pin you are removing maybe in a bucket with some other parts.
Let me know.
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6 years 9 months ago #178433
by neil
Having trouble laying my hands on those Jeff but this is the pin in question. If you have one, I'll definitely take it and the locking tab that goes with it (two if you have them). You can see it's 4B6691 in the parts diagram, and here's a couple of photos of it in the process of being drilled out. You can see I've cut it through to remove the anchor which has enabled me to get the drill bit nicely lined up. It's not an original pin because it has a hex head on it. The standard shafts are retained with a lock tab
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #179871
by d2gary
Having trouble laying my hands on those Jeff but this is the pin in question. If you have one, I'll definitely take it and the locking tab that goes with it (two if you have them). You can see it's 4B6691 in the parts diagram, and here's a couple of photos of it in the process of being drilled out. You can see I've cut it through to remove the anchor which has enabled me to get the drill bit nicely lined up. It's not an original pin because it has a hex head on it. The standard shafts are retained with a lock tab
I was able to make some new shafts for the brake linkage pivot. 3/4" 1018 cold rolled shaft. Drilled out the brake linkage and final housing with a 3/4 drill bit. Put the 3/4 shaft in the lathe and turned it down for clearance. Used a thin wheel on a 4" grinder to cut the notch for the retainer.
Not real pretty but looks like it should work. Shaft was $1.98 A foot and about 1/2 hour to make
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6 years 8 months ago #180049
by neil
Made some more progress today. Dismantled the final drive - ummed and ahhed about it - leave it alone vs. what if the bearings are bad, and I'm glad I trusted my intuition because as the pictures show, the bearings are on the way out.
Question to the brains trust - this machine's not realistically going to get a lot of work - should I just continue with that rusty pinion gear based on, say less than 100 hours a year or am I asking for trouble if I don't replace it? The driven gear is fine.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180050
by caterpillar13
what does the bull gear look like ??
I would replace it, the face is gone and it will grind the bull gear up too.
a lot of work to this far and have to do it again in maybe 50 hours, it could go 200 but it will fail some time.
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6 years 8 months ago #180061
by STEPHEN
Made some more progress today. Dismantled the final drive - ummed and ahhed about it - leave it alone vs. what if the bearings are bad, and I'm glad I trusted my intuition because as the pictures show, the bearings are on the way out.
Question to the brains trust - this machine's not realistically going to get a lot of work - should I just continue with that rusty pinion gear based on, say less than 100 hours a year or am I asking for trouble if I don't replace it? The driven gear is fine.
That pinion is asking for trouble. With the pitting you will get accelerated wear on both gears and many places for a fracture to start.
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6 years 8 months ago #180062
by STEPHEN
I was able to make some new shafts for the brake linkage pivot. 3/4" 1018 cold rolled shaft. Drilled out the brake linkage and final housing with a 3/4 drill bit. Put the 3/4 shaft in the lathe and turned it down for clearance. Used a thin wheel on a 4" grinder to cut the notch for the retainer.
Not real pretty but looks like it should work. Shaft was $1.98 A foot and about 1/2 hour to make
Looks like what I had to do, cut the shaft around the brake pivot and find a way to get the rest out. That cat design can be tough to take apart when all rusted up.
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6 years 8 months ago #180069
by neil
That input is good enough for me - I'm on the hunt for a new pinion. As previously mentioned, the other gear is mostly fine. There are just a couple of teeth that have some rust on them, but not nearly as bad as the pinion. Since that gear has about 10x the # of teeth, maybe those couple of teeth would last proportionally longer?
Thoughts?
I guess I can inspect that gear periodically through the oil drain hole. And now that I've had the whole unit apart and every nut, bolt, stud, and shaft moves easily, it wouldn't be a huge deal to swap it out if it went south quickly
The other thing I noticed is that the previous mechanic fitted a ball bearing to the outer end of the pinion shaft, whereas the parts catalog shows a roller bearing and the serviceman's reference indicates that the pinion just slides out of the roller race; instead I had to pull the driven gear to get the pinion shaft out. There was no retaining pin for that ball bearing which is no surprise as it doesn't have an indentation to retain the race. So that will be swapped with the correct bearing components.
Question - the ball bearing was a bit loose in the hole - should I smear a bit of JB Weld carefully around it so that it's a tighter fit or some shim stock. I'll measure it but it can't be more than maybe 002 or 003 so I don't know if I'll find shim stock thin enough.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180078
by STEPHEN
Neil, on the loose race you could use loctite. I try to keep some brake cleaner around for a quick cleanup of bore and bearing before the retaining compound. The labels somtimes recommend a primer but I haven't tried one yet.
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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
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