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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
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6 years 8 months ago #180317
by neil
I forgot to comment - Herb, when you wrote that you'd go with what Cat says, go with the 25t spec listed in the front of the book using your pressing method and / or follow the instruction that says to tap the hub while tightening the nut (and how would one determine the fitted tonnage using that method)? I'd guess you meant that you'd use the press method despite the book saying tap and tighten? I'd be inclined to as well, because then I would know how many tons it's pressed on with
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180328
by hfdzl
Neil, I would go to 25T as you say you actually know what the condition is of the assembly. I can't help but think the tap the hub method was a carry over from 10/ 15 or 20 tractor. Service info seems real sketchy for the early models
Both tractors I took apart the only hubs that were tight were bevel shaft and both sides of the steering clutch drum. Even then they didn't seem 'real tight'
R2 5E3562 SP U.S.A. W.9151
R2 5E3563 SP U.S.A. W.9152
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6 years 8 months ago #180351
by neil
My sprockets were hand-tight, this final gear was actually loose, the brake hub popped off fairly easily, and the steering hub had to be cut off. My 20t hollow ram wouldn't even look at it. I just about used an M bottle cutting that thing off (more skill probably would have saved some gas : )
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180358
by hfdzl
What I did was use the OTC 17 1/2T push puller. Put tension on the steering drums/hubs with 18" crescent and 1 1/2 box wrench until I coulndn't pull any more. Then gently heated the centers with my torch, didn't take long until the 'pop'. The first one startled me, OK after that.
R2 5E3562 SP U.S.A. W.9151
R2 5E3563 SP U.S.A. W.9152
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6 years 8 months ago #180377
by Sprocket71
Rose bud [torch] the head of the bolts. while still dull red, smack the top of the bolts with an 8 lb hammer once each. don't deform the heads, let cool, go back to cheater. Acetone/atf makes terrific penetrating oil. let cool first though.
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6 years 8 months ago #180380
by Sprocket71
Rose bud [torch] the head of the bolts. while still dull red, smack the top of the bolts with an 8 lb hammer once each. don't deform the heads, let cool, go back to cheater. Acetone/atf makes terrific penetrating oil. let cool first though.
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6 years 8 months ago #180388
by neil
Thanks Scotty - I didn't get them rose-red but if I'm understanding you, would that be to relieve the binding pressure on the bolt heads? I ended up using a 1" rattle gun which wrung most of their necks. Since then I've picked up a mag drill and a set of annular cutters so I'm going to drill out the remnants and clean it all up.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180389
by neil
And I've picked up some NOS 2F2565 master pins from Spain - the ones with the equal sized plugs so I can split tracks easily. I have the new plugs as well. Blumaq has about a dozen of these pins in the warehouse there.
New set of bearings all round for the left final arrived today and a new pinion from Florin in the next few days so that final is just about done (only been 6 months... )
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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6 years 8 months ago #180401
by d2gary
Neil are you going to use your 20ton ram on the gear or are you going to upgrade to a 30ton ram and go the full 25tons. Just curious if with the reduced rating in the steering/brake hubs due to age would apply here and 20tons would be enough to hold the gear tight and reduce the risk of breakage.
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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding
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