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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding

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7 years 1 month ago #172654 by drujinin
LOL!
All the wild ones fly!
Never saw one that couldn't.
I didn't say it but I know for a fact a 22 Mag solid right thru the chest will drop him out of the tree with minimal damage to the meat! :nono:
Then they need to be processed to make them juicy like a Butterball!
We have wild Turkeys out here that walk all the way to Town (about a mile), then eat out of Lawns, sometimes causing a minor traffic jam when they cross the streets!

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7 years 1 month ago #172656 by neil
Well I know but I was hoping he might have gotten a little to portly to launch : )

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173549 by neil
Made some more progress today. Installed the bevel gear left side bearing, and speedi-sleeve (with JB Weld in the voids), torqued it up with the original shims and it rolls over just nicely.
Now I'm putting the thrust bearing and components together but I have a question for anyone that's been in a D2 steering clutch. The parts catalog shows a circlip, a pressed steel cover, an o-ring, the thrust bearing, in that order in the cage. The serviceman's reference shows that too. The bit that I'm unclear on is that, when being greased, the grease comes into the cage on the "closed" side of the cage (second picture). Since that side is actually open , I can't see how the bearing would get greased as it seems to me that the grease would just ooze out the side instead of squirting through the bearing. Can someone help me understand if this is how it's supposed to be arranged. The other side of the cage has that pressed steel cover, which, along with the o-ring and the retaining nut, would stop any grease escape on that side. But I don't think this bearing's going to be greased properly the way I'm currently looking at it.
Dana from Florin sent me another pressed steel cover, slightly different profile, that if placed on the closed side, still wouldn't prevent grease escape. I realize that some has to escape in order to grease the bushing in the clutch pressure plate but I'm worried that the bearing won't get enough. Thoughts?

Also, the new retaining nut (a c-wrench nut) does not have the semi-holes for the locking setscrews that the original had, that screw in between the radius of the nut and the plate thread. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to drill and tap new "half-moons" or use some other technique to retain that nut. Obviously don't want it coming loose because it would be a pain to have to pull the final because it worked loose. What should I do?









Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
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7 years 4 weeks ago #173552 by Mike Meyer
Neil, you are making good progress now, check your old steering clutch thrust bearings because from memory my old one's had a small recess cut in the side of the outer shell to allow the oil to flow into the bearing, otherwise there was no way for oil, or grease to enter the bearing if that makes sense, you must not block the oil / grease port in that steel housing.
Regards
Mike

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173554 by neil
Thanks Mike, had to cut the old one out and it's long gone. I did wipe the new one down and didn't notice a hole but will take another look

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173558 by Mike Meyer
Hi Neil, it's not actually a hole but more a shallow relief section about 1/2" across machined into the edge of the outer race that allows the oil or grease to enter the inner bearing, I remember the new thrust bearings I fitted to my D2 were slightly wider than the originals and that extra width effectively blocked the oil passage.
regards
Mike

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173559 by catsilver
You have to drill and tap the grub screw threads which lock the castellated nuts yourself. I often used to use the original nuts, and if they went up tight with the screw holes aligned, they would be OK to go again.

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173560 by drujinin
I agree with Mike, I remember staring at that trying to figure it out to! :confused2:
If memory serves me correctly I ground a relief in the new race and hoped that it would dribble oil into the bearing.

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173561 by STEPHEN
On the greasing question, just put it back like the parts book shows and it will work fine. On the spanner nut, I have cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and run them up tight with red or green loctight.

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7 years 4 weeks ago #173565 by neil
Thanks team! The cage itself has a couple of reliefs but they're on the pressure plate side, i.e. the side that would let grease out without having to go through the bearing. I'll take another look tonight but I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to grind a couple of slots in the cage. Even if I did that though, with those cage reliefs, the grease would likely take the path of least resistance and head out the pressure plate side.

Stephen, sounds like the grease would get to the bearing regardless? It's a pity that the condition of the bearing can't be assessed when the machine is assembly because it would be good to see the grease going into the bearing, much like grease going through a universal joint. I'll take the pressure plate and nut to my machine guy and get him to fit the set screw. I don't trust myself to do the Locktite approach properly : ) I think just one screw will be sufficient
By the way, I wrote grease and I have "regular" grease from a certain green colored dealer, but I'm wondering if I should go with something a shade lighter?
The all-new parts look awesome!

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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