seiscat wrote:

Hi Scott, I really didn't think this project would ever get so far along. Congratulations! I started looking at the pics again and enlarging some of them. There is a major problem with the right track. The track appears to be frozen and won't rotate to the point that it is lifting the tractor! If you get the D7D to move it looks like reverse is your best option.
Happy New Year,
Craig
 

This is about the funniest thing I have heard lately, 10 bucks says the back wheel will set down when the blade is raised.
Bob

Hi Scott,
Something else that came to mind, I'm not sure whether or not it's been mentioned, or whether you have been through it yourself anyway, is this machine fitted with glow plugs to aid in cold starting? I've never been around one of these that wasn't pilot motor start, so I don't know for certain. It might allow you to start it each time without having to use starting fluid if they're fitted and in working order. Just a thought.

Thank you Bob! You owe me $10 lol! Lifting the blade takes weight OFF the sprocket! Besides the blade is already chained up. I was taking a wild guess at what could cause the sprocket to be lifted. After taking a closer look I could see the front idler is either mistakenly installed in the high position or has other problems which allow it to be higher than the bottom rollers. The weight of blade has caused the right roller frame to "nose dive" thereby lifting the sprocket. Problem CORRECTLY solved. At least I was able to give you a good chuckle.
Craig

 




 

Deas wrote:

Hi, Bulletpruf.
With the engine running and the transmission in neutral - gear shift lever only, F/R lever in one or 'tuther' - test the steering clutches as I mentioned above. If both pull all the way back pretty freely, put the transmission into 4th gear and engage the master clutch with BOTH steering clutch levers held all the way back. Then SLOWLY release one steering clutch lever at a time to see what happens. Try this in both forward and reverse.

If you can't get the master clutch to disengage and the clutch brake to work, you will likely have to stop and restart the engine to make the gear changes. If this is the case, hold BOTH steering clutch levers fully back when re-starting.

You might also want to do a little 'homework' on the hydraulics to make sure that they 'ackshully' WORK and will raise the blade before attempting this.

If the steering clutch levers don't behave as they ought, you will likely need to check the fluid level in the reservoir - which you should already have done before starting as this would rule out low fluid as the reason for non-operation - and also check the steering clutch adjustment as per the manual.

Hope this helps.

Just my 0.02.

Hi Deas Plant -

My problem with all of the fluid levels is that the tractor is currently not sitting level.  The front/nose of the tractor is facing downhill, and it's certainly enough to change the level of the fluid in the various reservoirs.

There is a flat spot about 15 meters in front of the tractor; I was hoping to get it there to get a good check on fluid levels.

Also, as Craig has already mentioned, the blade is chained in the up position.  I suspect this is because of a hydraulic problem or perhaps someone expected to have to pull start it.  Whatever the case, I did try to raise the blade while it was running but nothing happened.

Thanks for the information.

Scott

D8Dude wrote:

Hi Scott,
Something else that came to mind, I'm not sure whether or not it's been mentioned, or whether you have been through it yourself anyway, is this machine fitted with glow plugs to aid in cold starting? I've never been around one of these that wasn't pilot motor start, so I don't know for certain. It might allow you to start it each time without having to use starting fluid if they're fitted and in working order. Just a thought.

Hi D8Dude - 

This appears to have been originally equipped with a pony motor.  As such, it wasn't factory equipped with glow plugs and it looks like whoever did the install only did the starter.  No glow plugs.

Thanks,

Scott

seiscat wrote:

Thank you Bob! You owe me $10 lol! Lifting the blade takes weight OFF the sprocket! Besides the blade is already chained up. I was taking a wild guess at what could cause the sprocket to be lifted. After taking a closer look I could see the front idler is either mistakenly installed in the high position or has other problems which allow it to be higher than the bottom rollers. The weight of blade has caused the right roller frame to "nose dive" thereby lifting the sprocket. Problem CORRECTLY solved. At least I was able to give you a good chuckle.
Craig
 

Hi Craig - Well if the track is not frozen, that's good news indeed!

Thanks,

Scott

Hi, bulletpruf.
It is often the case that some guesswork - and some experience when available - is involved when checking fluids due to being on uneven ground. In the case of the steering clutch booster reservoir, a little 'Triggernometry' may help by assessing the angle of the machine and applying that to the fluid level in the reservoir. Checking it even where it is will give you some idea of the condition of the oil.

Re the hydraulics, are the lower end of the lift ram cylinders and/or the rods wet or dirty - or both? If so, this would indicate a leak or leaks. If you can get to the cap, removing it will at least give you some idea of the fluid level in the reservoir. IF there is a screen in there, it should be removable to give a better view of the fluid level.

Re siescat's comment above regarding the front idler's position - the front idler axles are set in off-centered reversible blocks which are held in clamps on the ends of the idler yokes. There is a slot in each of the clamps through which you can see the end of the axle. The location of the axle within that slot will tell you whether the idler is mounted in the low or the high position.

Hope this helps.

Just my 0.02.

Frozen chains are indeed a major pain. But the other side of the equation is the warn chains have so much slop they almost never freeze/seize.

At this stage of the recovery process don't over think the fluid level of the compartments. As long as they are not dry in most cases your good. The exceptions being the hydraulic tanks, but Cat is good to mount pumps low so they gravity feed well. The power boosted steering looks the same as earlier D6 and D7 tractors (the same unit on both I believe). If one steering clutch is not fully released you will have no boost to help release the other side. So to pull the second steering clutch to release will take much more effort than the first. Just the way it was made. So to use Deas method I would be prepared to tie one clutch back with rope or wire, so you only have to rassle with one clutch. 😉 As you only appear to have 2 hands and arms. 🤣

Deas wrote:

Hi, bulletpruf.
It is often the case that some guesswork - and some experience when available - is involved when checking fluids due to being on uneven ground. In the case of the steering clutch booster reservoir, a little 'Triggernometry' may help by assessing the angle of the machine and applying that to the fluid level in the reservoir. Checking it even where it is will give you some idea of the condition of the oil.

Re the hydraulics, are the lower end of the lift ram cylinders and/or the rods wet or dirty - or both? If so, this would indicate a leak or leaks. If you can get to the cap, removing it will at least give you some idea of the fluid level in the reservoir. IF there is a screen in there, it should be removable to give a better view of the fluid level.

Re siescat's comment above regarding the front idler's position - the front idler axles are set in off-centered reversible blocks which are held in clamps on the ends of the idler yokes. There is a slot in each of the clamps through which you can see the end of the axle. The location of the axle within that slot will tell you whether the idler is mounted in the low or the high position.

Hope this helps.

Just my 0.02.

Hi Deas Plant - the lower ends of the lift end cylinders and rods did not appear to be wet or dirty, from what I can remember, but I'll inspect them closely the next time I'm out there.

Thanks for the input on trigonometry; math isn't my favorite subject, but I can give it a shot.

I also appreciate the information on the mounting of the idler.

Best regards,

Scott

Ray54 wrote:

Frozen chains are indeed a major pain. But the other side of the equation is the warn chains have so much slop they almost never freeze/seize.

At this stage of the recovery process don't over think the fluid level of the compartments. As long as they are not dry in most cases your good. The exceptions being the hydraulic tanks, but Cat is good to mount pumps low so they gravity feed well. The power boosted steering looks the same as earlier D6 and D7 tractors (the same unit on both I believe). If one steering clutch is not fully released you will have no boost to help release the other side. So to pull the second steering clutch to release will take much more effort than the first. Just the way it was made. So to use Deas method I would be prepared to tie one clutch back with rope or wire, so you only have to rassle with one clutch. 😉 As you only appear to have 2 hands and arms. 🤣

Ray - Thanks for the input.  

Scott