Grease Pumps
Every farmer had one on the "trap" wagon along with a drum of lubricant for filling it.
I think Caterpillar had them as part of the required tools, etc when you purchased a tractor, stand to be corrected on this.
The "grease" was thick and difficult to pump when cool, you soon learned to grease the machine and disc in the evening while the tractor was coolilng down and you had fueled it.

Memory alone, that lube was something on the order of 140 wt, sticky, and always found a way onto you and then everywhere else as you moved about!

Alemite shows a pump on the website. They are pretty pricey!
factorysupplyoutlet.com/multi-pressure-b..._EAYYBiABEgI7cPD_BwE

Yep definitely don't have that kind of money for a pump haha. I did find an adapter for my grease gun to work on the buttonheads though so should be alright just had no idea they made them like that and thought I was missing them because I'd only ever seen the nipple type.

It make no sense to remove grease fittings, but anything is possible. But most all track rollers made since the 70's are lubed for life. If the seal goes out, and you operate it another few hours the life is over. But it is possible to add grease and keep them alive. If you remove the plug and it is not pipe thread, very high possibility it is a sealed for life roller.

Cat roller made after WW2 were all 100 hours rollers I believe. Provided you are careful as Phil talked of not blowing the seal out. So if you grease with small grease gun I recommend you stay away from the fancy battery powered ones. Pump carefully and feel the resistance of it being full.

I do not believe they are life type rollers but the grease fittings are not missing just my lack of knowledge on it that made me think so. I'll add some grease when the adapter arrives, I just have a manual style and I'll ensure not to overfill. Will need to give them a good cleaning first they are covered in mud and old grease. 

that is the button head fitting for the normal rollers. lubed for life have a plug. our machine has the normal lubed rollers. some time back someone did post a pick of the tool to fill those lubed for life units. i think it might have been in the cat tools discussion. it fitted on the volume compressor's coupler and you used that to pump oil in to the roller till it spilled out the breather hole you could probably do the same thing with a funnel and a jug if you knew what volume they each held.

when i said an adapter i meant one that would adapt from the standard zerk style grease couplers we use today to the button heads. i went down the rabbit hole one day and the different styles of grease fittings over the years before standardising on the zerk and button head style (note there is a 5/8 size aswell cat used the 7/8 aka giant type)

the alemite adapter part number is 304300-A.
you can also still buy the same style of volume compressors from alemite. they still have seal kits for them too unknown if they fitted the originals made in the 50's though. one day i'll the one ive got working again.

Thanks for the information, I did order the 7/8" adapter. Now just a waiting game for this stuff to arrive.

After I could not get track roller grease anymore I used double 00 grease and had no trouble

Finally got the ultrasonic cleaner set up, ran the carb through it. It definitely cleaned it up better than I did by hand then ran carb clean through all the passages to verify good flow throughout the body. Seemed to be a smoother path for the carb clean compared to how it flowed prior to the ultrasonic. Put it back together back on the pony and can't get it to start at all now, choke, half choke or none can't get it turned over. No sediment in the fuel bowl and put in fresh gas again so back to being confused. 

Can't get it turned over? Are you saying the starting engine will not crank - frozen - locked up?
There is a difference in "turning over" and running.
Did you try to put a couple squirts of fuel into the open throat of the carburetor, and then crank a couple of turns?
No indication of a pop or attempt to fire?
Pull the sparkplugs - were they wet or dry. Sure you had spark?

Was the carburetor completely dry of all cleaning agents?
One drop of "water" can change the whole operation depending where it is.

Sounds like you really need to back up, make sure the float level, needle valve, etc are all set to specs.
Ensure you have spark, compression is vital too.

What is the result if you use an oil can - mix gasoline/oil approx 70-30 and put a "squirt" in each cylinder, replace the plugs and pull it over?
The Oil will help seal the rings and lube the cylinder, raise compression a bit, also eliminate any vacaum problem or carburetor issue. This will work if the carb is installed or not
Post the result of this action - either it pops (tries to fire and run) or not.

Did you plug that hole in the intake below the carburetor?

These are basic engines - they require air-fuel-ignition to run.

Do you have a small engine shop or know someone that works on lawnmowers, garden tractors, etc that can help you?
CTS

Apologies, still cranks fine just didn't start. The pieces were all free of water when I reassembled and installed. I didn't spend a bunch of time on it because I'm redoing flooring in my house. I'll have to check for spark again when I get some more time but was mainly bummed it didn't just start right up after the ultrasonic cleaning. Nobody around me that does small engine work I'm very rural and want to handle it myself anyway. I also tried with the exhaust hole plugged and unplugged.

I'll keep working on it as time permits and get it going good soon enough, float is measured at what zenith called for and isn't cracked or anything I tested it and it floated just fine. I'm sure it's something simple at this point, maybe just adjusting the idle/high speeds a little will keep you updated.