In my opinion and experiences --
Turn the fuel on to the starting engine - let the Carburetor bowl fill, Shut the FUEL OFF!
Maybe one pull or two with the choke, then no choke - Couple pulls should be running, as it starts/runs - turn the fuel back on.
Sounds to me like you are flooding out - quite common.
You should be able to tell if it is flooding (running exceedingly rich or lean- starved for fuel. Either way make the appropriate adjustments to your procedure.
Always - shut fuel off and let the starting engine run carb out of gas!
Second thought but sounds like it is already eliminated --- THAT GROUND WIRE ON THE MAGNETO - Switch -- I do not have any use for them, too many problems - one of my bosses years ago just pulled them all off, solved the grounding out problems.
Remember proper craninking procedures, if you get MAD at it, you will gain two things, blue air and possible hurt!
Just be gentle, let the impulse on the mag do it's job!
CTS
Thanks for the tips, I wouldn't be surprised it it was flooding I did not turn the fuel off after filling and could only really get it started by removing the air cleaner and using starting fluid. Definitely learned yesterday don't try left handed crank when it kicked back and smashed my arm...seems from the tips I read on other forums I should pull the handle instead of trying to push so I'll have to try that when I go back to it.
First things first --
CRANKING PROCEDURES - DO NOT TAKE CHANCES - FOLLOW PROCEDURES - NO SHORTCUTS!
NEVER-NEVER-NEVER wrap your thumb around a Crank
NEVER-NEVER-Never push down on a crank - same as pushing in any position --- pushing does not allow you to fall away and always presents your body in a stiff position!
NEVER- put any part of your body in line with the arc of the Crank! That includes your bystanders and others. If it throws the bar or crank, and they are in line - guess where it hits!
There are many videos of persons cranking various engines - some get away with foolish -improper - dangerous procedures and others pay the price - maybe just a bruise but some not nearly that fortunate.
Many methods of starting engines, ropes, cranks, bars, and some even require one to climb the flywheels. Just remember - you are not nearly as fast as you think you are when a kickback occurs and they do not give warning!
THINK - Then look at your procedures, your stance, and where you are going to be if it does kick back!
I have cranked many engines in my lifetime, Caterpillar Thirty with the long throw, Wisconsin engines, short throws, bars in Caterpillar 60's and of course the multitudes of Cats that used cranks and ropes. Fordson "f" and Model "T" Fords. Never been hurt but have been close more times than I want to remember!
In one of the many publications I have read over the years - one quote remains with me regarding cranking an engine -- "OL' DOBBIN NEVER KICKED LIKE THIS CRITTER"
Sorry - I can not recall the publication but would be happy to give the credits to the owner - it is very fitting!
CTS
Do you by chance have any videos showing a proper technique for the one that comes through the hood? I couldn't find any good examples it just seemed easier to push than pull and well that obviously ended with some pain luckily nothing to terrible. Picture attached of the crank type on my machine.![]()
https://youtu.be/i-cBungm3uc
https://youtu.be/i-cBungm3uc
In my experience starting my D7 7M (same as 3T pony), the pony throttle should be closed and full choke to start with. Where the pony throttle lever enters the governor there is a little “flip over” catch which holds the throttle closed I use this when first starting and warming up the pony.
When cranking, I “rock” the engine back and forth a few times against compression but without giving it a full pull, this ensures there is plenty of rich fuel in the cylinders before over t.d.c. As soon as it fires stop choking it. Give it a few minutes to warm up with the throttle closed before engaging the pinion and opening up the pony throttle.
It works for me every time.
I will give that a shot, probably can't get back to it til Monday and will need to reinstall the air cleaner to try it the right way and hopefully not need starting fluid
Another question, any tips on how many turns out the jet on the exterior bottom of the carb should be? Thinking that could be contributing to it not staying running.