what we did for our d4 was fit a trans cooler for a landcruiser and made a bracket to mount it infront of the rad.
the water side wasnt leaking thankfully. but the mechanic plugged that off any way so it can never leak.

I'll look into one of those, only thing I can think of is something else in the carb body that can't get with tip cleaners that shifted its was back in front of the jet.

Do not give up.
Take a break! Walk away for a while, do something else, away from it!
Come back with fresh mind and open eyes, like you had not seen this before, run through the checklist. You are starting this machine for the first time!
You might be surprised what you overlooked multiple times and yet is so obvious.

When you do discover the problem, let us all know. Every experience is a teachable moment and often those little discoveries make a big difference to another dealing with similar issues.

CTS

For sure. I'll probably order a small ultrasonic cleaner and go from there, something has to be in the carb body. It makes sense that I got some out and it was a little better but probably couldn't get it all and it blocked the jet again. I'll start checking out some of the other issues ordered oil and filters and the CCU book. Can grease all ther zerk spots check the gear oils and see how much I need to add. Then fix up the steering brake and figure out the oil cooler leak. Found some instructions on here for adjusting the CCU so may try that before I get the book in see how active I feel later haha again appreciate everyone's help it's coming along.

Decided not to mess with the CCU for now. Did grease all the zerks and check all the gear oil. The right brake is now easier to push in but doesn't come back, spring looks to be shot compared to the properly working one but that's a cheap fix. Hoping just greasing the CCU fixes the blade issue it seemed to be seriously lacking grease so glad I did that before busting a cable. Still need to locate the oil cooler leak and change the oil and filters. While I'm waiting for the ultrasonic cleaner to arrive. Will not be trying to start it up again until after the carb has been cleaned and the oil changed.

Oh ya, I'm missing all the fittings to lube the undercarriage though. I guess the zerks were removed and the previous owner said he would send them with it and didn't along with the front grille. Does anybody happen to know the fitting size so I can order a bunch of them, having a hard time locating them in my parts book.

the 7/8 buttonhead are available from the dealer and thier cheap. we paid 7.50 AUD a piece alemite wanted 21 bucks each mind you that was a few yrs ago now. when saw a bag of on the counter at a local hose and fittings joint and asked the question "how much" before we left the store manger had asked us for the cat part number and said ill return those. the 21 bucks was cost price not the customers price.

cat is like that if its common and still used on later machines its cheap if not its expensive. like d4 u series radiator caps 150 bucks each. i swear i heard mum yelling at dad from my house when she saw the card statement for that purchase.

2f1336 for the track rollers. they now list the same part for the front idlers too (might need a male to female nipple to extend it slightly)
theyve gone up in price. now $10.63 AUD.

you will need an adapter to grease them or a old volume compressor. they originally used a heavy oil in the track rollers many now used a semi-fluid grease or ngli 000 grease cornhead or cotton picker grease is about right and doesnt leak out like oil. just be careful to not over fill or you could pop the seal out the rollers.

mcnuaght and alemite both make adapters for the giant 7/8 button head fittings.

trainzkid88 wrote:

just be careful to not over fill or you could pop the seal out the rollers.
 

 

I'll give you one thing you've got a good memory. You once posted you can't hurt rollers by pumping too much grease and it was pointed out to you that you can damage the bellows style seals.by several members. Now you post it as your own advice.

If your rollers are missing the grease fittings then they may be "lubricated for life" rollers. Be very unusual for some on to have removed the grease points and plugged them. Or they may be the type that you remove the plug and screw a tube into it and pump until oil flows out around the tube.

If it's 2f1336 then those would be on there and maybe the guy was talking about the adapter or something. Guess it makes sense why the operators manual shows them using a different tool to lubricate those than the other spots. Seems I'll need to find that adapter and go from there thanks.