I have a winch too so I want to fit those channel irons now so I don't have to go back when it's time to fit the winch. You're 4" taller than me so I'll have no problems with leg room.

Could someone let me know what the height on the channels that fit under the seat tank are, to raise it when using an Hyster D2 winch? I need to get these next week so need some help please.

In other news I have the 540rpm PTO fitted after cleaning the rust and crud off the input shafts and unfreezing the pins on the control. The rest of it looks ok and it rolls over smoothly.

The belt pulley attachment took a bit of cleanup to get it to slide on but it's not quite there, and once I had it on to close engagement, there's some binding as it rolls over. I'm hoping that it's just some crud in the bearings because I took a look in the top and there's definitely crud in there. I pre-emptively ordered gaskets so I'll open it up tomorrow and see what we've got. If it needs bearings, so be it but I'm getting refurbishment fatigue so as they say, "there's a time to cut bait and a time to fish..."







I'm questioning the value of this style of stud - more than 50% of these have screwed out of the block rather than the nut coming off. That to me says it's no different to having a regular capscrew other than the ability to achieve the torque. So, while I'm cutting off those nuts and fitting new ones for the drawbar, for the final drive covers, I replaced them all with capscrews. 1/4 of the price and easier to manage.



Finally, I'll fit the battery box and get the heavy gauge wiring done to the starter and then test the charging circuit. I have a 6v battery and am determined to use 6v for cool factor. If the generator is not up to it, or the starter is dozy, I will get them rewound. I think the starter should be ok though because I can just about start this engine by turning the flywheel over by hand - it doesn't take much, certainly not a hard yank on the starter rope (which I've tested with for fail-safe starting)

Hi Gary, my tractor is after 5U13273 so it uses the channel irons underneath the seat tank to raise it instead. I'm going to have my guy make a couple of pieces to bolt on top of the seat tank rail so that it doesn't bend up at the bolt holes.

But on my repeat search today I did find that it was stated that the channel irons are 3" which is what I thought it was. Wondering if I should go 4" like someone did for extra space.

Sadly gaskets are not available from Cat for the belt pulley and they don't show on machinerytrader either.
Would anyone know if Olsens would have them?

Oh I know that - I'm wondering though if pre-made gaskets are available

Thanks MC, I saw someone else posted once that it was 3" too so I know now that's my minimum. I wonder if there's a downside to 4".
The other thing I was going to do was have my channel not welded to the seat but I could see that it would potentially stabilize it side to side.

Another question for the knowledgeable. I had the air cleaner painted and there's some overspray on the aluminum label. What's a good way to remove the paint without wrecking the label?



Also, I want to disassemble the main governor control that's mounted on the air cleaner. I can see a keyway but no pin or other retainer. How are the lever and the arm fixed to the shaft? Press fit?