Garlic wrote:

What happened with the master link? It looks like you cut or chiseled the end off, if I'm interpreting that picture correctly. I don't think I've seen master pins with those sideways pins or plugs in them, or maybe those are something you put in in the removal?
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Pete the master links are a style that a plug drives in each side and forces those 4 spiked pins outwards to hold it in place. The plugs are hollow, threaded, and sealed with a cork. The threads were supposed to allow you to pull the plug but they were long gone. I ended up just cutting the plugs out to keep things moving. Everything else I tried to get them out had failed. Spent 2 full days to get just one out the first weekend I had it inside. Took 20 mins to get them out once the plugs were cut.

My D2 had those tapered plugs and cork The master pin had longitudinal slots on the ends so the tapered plug would drive the end of the master pin out for a tight fit---yes-it took me quite a while to get those plugs out--kroil--heat--puller--stripped threads, etc
the new replacement master pins are just a tight fit and get pounded in

Interesting. I've seen a bunch of the split master pins with drive in plugs, including both variants. One variant has the plugs driven in from each side and a solid center, the other has a hollow center, with a smaller plug dropped all the way through and driven in the outside, then a larger plug dropped in from the same side and driven in the near side. All that I have seen, though, have the splits so the plugs expand them, but smooth outer bores.

I've never seen one with spiked pins extending outward to grab the link. You learn something new every day. Nice to know that only halfway through the day I can now shut my brain off, since I've already learned my thing for this day.

(Walks away into traffic whistling contentedly).

Pete.

That's what I was under the impression when I was working with from the manuals Pete. Then I hopped on here and looked at some pictures of what people had been working on and realized this was another animal. Based on what the last owner (3rd owner of the machine) was telling me the last time the tracks were off was some time in the late 60's - early 70's. It has 4622 hours on it from what the meter says. I am hoping to get everything working correctly, do a repaint, decals, and then put it to use around my garage. I think the only thing I am missing off the machine outside of the drain plug are the guide lights with stone guards.

Last night I took the other final drive off. Same story as the right side except that the reliese bearing is stuck in the release position on the left side. Another wonderfull mouse nest in the clutch housing.... I think this marks the point where I am done taking stuff off. Time to order parts and get cleaning/ sanding/ painting.

Took me all of Saturday and an hour Sunday to get the steering clutch packs off. 3 generations of pullers and I finally figured outsomething strong enough to work with tons of heat. Anyone have an opinion good or bad on the sintered bronze replacement disks? Also started to degreese and clean up for some paint work to happen. The yellow looks off because I am using my phone camera but it is the correct cat yellow. They red on the dip sticks and handles was something I saw on there that someone had added at some point in the past. I kind of liked that so I sprayed now and will mask off for yellow once clean and cured.

The sintered bronze discs are definitely the way to go, I prefer them over the original style riveted friction material type. Plus the bronze ones won't sieze or swell if left to sit or get exposed to moisture. It requires more of them to obtain the necessary clutch pack thickness due to their thinner profile, but they perform very well. I've had them in my D2 since 2009.

great job on the tear down looks like a big job. You have done a good job on the photos. I am enjoying watching your progress thanks for taking the time to post

Definitely the way to go!
I run one of each as it was an availability/ re-use issue.
I don't baby the tractor, so I can say there is no noticable drive/operation difference.
My personal feeling is the bronze drags a little more when it gets hot.
But reliability is equal or higher than Fiber.
One day I will find my Fiber swelling and sticking, it'll get changed out right away.

Thanks for the info on the clutch disks! I guess that's what I will have to do. That means I have some time to get this thing realllll clean before I paint it haha. I don't think I will be reusing the inner drums, springs, etc. Just will take a few weeks and ordering in batches to buy the good stuff.

Thanks for the positive feedback Jw74. I've never worked on anything like this before so all you and your fellow collectors guidence has gotten me far and I appreciate it!

Sand blasted and painted the under seat tool box last night. Masked off all the exhaust that I painted the other day.