Worst case is the clamps won't hold and the clutch self tightens.

On the carrier roller.....these can be a bit of a problem also. The original grease type units had a different shaft diameter than the common replacement lifetime lubed type. Easiest fix is to find a good used stand and roller assy.

Late s/n units (very late) changed to the newer style clamp type stands and lifetime lube carrier rollers.

No problem with bottom rollers, just source the nearest supplier.

Well gents here's the clutch update...This is is what was found in the bottom of the clutch housing. ccjersey you said "a small chunk of flat iron that clamps the ring" this is it....you were right. However as you see there is only one lock bolt on it and it's bent, the other is still on the clutch housing and is fine, undoubtably it came loose and hit something else in there and pulled out, not sure yet if it pulled the threads. Went ahead and drained oil and it wasn't milky, old yes. Fines on magnet, but no big chunks. If it did pull the threads then what is the repair gonna have to be??

Step by step....we decided to not move it until we resolve the clutch issue, so she is still sitting in the sun and just waiting to burn your ass

Yes, looks like a locking lug and bolt to me. Can’t say just what happed to the bolt, may have been over tighten at some point and stripped the threads, but at any rate it looks shot to me. You may get by, by using “Heli-Coil” thread installations, or better yet drilling the bolt hole out and going to an oversize thread and bolt, with some caterpillar “lock-tight” the heavy duty red type, I don’ have a parts number for it, but can get it from the one in my tool box, if you want it.

I have never had any trouble with the clutch bolts. To, bad those old cats don’t have a voice of their own too tell what has taken place in the past. LOL! Good luck on what you decide.

Kelly

If you don't want to run it, drag it

You have only part of the "lock assembly" there. The other piece is a similar flat piece of steel with two holes, but the larger hole on that one is threaded. This is held captive in the inside of the clutch cover piece and should not fall out (don't think it can anyway). A guide pin fits into the outermost hole and the stud you are showing in your picture (bent one) screws into the hole nearest the center of the clutch. If you get lucky, the stud will have backed out of the threads in the inner piece on its own far enough before it hit something and was ripped out the rest of the way. You're needing a stud and a nut there and if you can spray some brake cleaner into the hole to clean the threads up and use lock-tite on the stud as you screw it in, maybe you will avoid pulling the clutch to replace the inner piece of the lock assembly. In the future when adjusting the clutch, you will be loosening only the nut on the stud, not the loctited stud threads in the inner piece of the lock assembly.

the stud is a 2F7036 that someone may be able to look up and give the dimensions of. Or straighten the bent one and measure it against some at the autoparts store.

Does anyone have a parts diagram of the clutch assembly......I work better with a picture to look at please. I have ordered a parts book for her, but it won't be here til next week.

Thanks to all of you for all this information and help!!

Thats a dismantle for repair to fix it right.

The oil clutch for the D6 is not covered in either the Servicemen's Reference Books for the tractor or the D318 engine.

Service information was published in a separte 31 page manual Form #30842....or get hold of a later D6B service manual that has coverage of the same clutch.

Post the actual tractor s/n and the #46 s/n please.

OM & ccjersey....Thank you again for the information and help on this.....Gonna see if the threads are stripped and then straighten the lock bolt we have and try to find one at the auto parts......If this fails, then we will begin taking it down as you suggested.

I am gone for the evening to cook supper and finish feeding the critters. Have a good evening y'all!

Need to find the clamping plate and the pin also.
That is not a standard stud. Finding a substitute is not likely without modification.

OM.....the clamping plate and the pin are still in the clutch housing, however the pin has a slight bend in it. Hopefully the pin can be straightened and the threads in the clamping plate are still good. We will see tomorrow and I will keep you posted.

If yours has the threads pulled out of it, I believe I would attemp to rethread the part still in the clutch to 7/16 coarse thread. Might have to drill the clutch cover plate if the hole is not large enough for the tap to go through. You wouldn't be out much other than some time if it didn't work. Would have to redrill the piece you have in the picture to 7/16 or 15/32" once/if you get a stud anchored in the other peice.

Old Magnet, the D6 SRB I have covers both oil and dry clutches in detail. It is Form 30027-1 "Serviceman's reference book Caterpillar D6 Tractor".

If you have to pull the clutch, you can take some comfort in knowing that if you had other/older tractors, removing the clutch would involve pulling the engine, but the U series is designed for removal of individual components without major disassembly in most cases. Pulling a transmission does involve pulling the clutch first, but the main clutch and steering clutches can be unbolted and lifted out the top etc.