Just out of curiosity, what is the going rate for moving a D6 9U these days - I've got to get mine (also a 1957) moved from MS to LA - only about 80 miles. Probably going to move with the 10 ft blade still mounted. And what should it weigh with a full tank of diesel - I was guessing 22000-24000 pounds?

Trying to post a picture of my D6 9U

G'day. You can pull a dead D6 off a low loader fairly easy. Just make sure you have a long chain or cable and keep your towing tractor (rubber tyred tractor, not too small will do) moving because when it starts coming down the ramps, 8-9 ton is a fair bit of momentum so keep every one clear, it will come to a stop in due course.
Kevin

Hi, Lady Cat Skinner.
Hate ter hafta tellyer this but yer've already lorst yer mined buying an old machine like that - - - but you have at least lorst it in the best possible way. LOL.

Congratulations and may the old girl give you many years of faithful service. Also thanks for sharing the photos.

Just my 0.02.

Well gents......It's a little soon to be askin for help, but the old girl won't start Old Magnet you were quick on the draw with diagrams on the hydraulic control unit.....would you happen to have handy a diagram of the complete fuel injection system, this seems a logical place to start.

OK, Do you get lots (as in a mosquito choking cloud:lol:) of white smoke out of the exhaust when you crank it?
Decompression lever "in "?
throttle pulled hard toward the seat AND the lever down on the governor moving with it too

If all this is good and still no smoke, ensure you have fuel to the injector pumps. First you need to find the bleeder on the fuel filter tower. Easiest one is a knob on the top front side. If you are turning it over with the starter or pony motor, and the filter tower is not already full of fuel it may take a while to get all the air out. Loosen the bleed valve and see if you get a stream of fuel out of the drain line that runs down the front corner of the engine while turning the engine over. If you get it there then your problems are most likely in the injection pumps or not fuel related.

If no fuel at filter bleeder valve........
Things to check....
fuel in tank
is tank valve on (this is a quarter turn valve under tank left side access from rear after taking cover plate off below fuel tank)
line has holes worn or corroded in it as it comes along the side of the frame and engine block
Check the flow by loosening the nut holding the fuel line in the inlet / bypass valve block at the transfer pump below the filter tower. Or you can easily drop the valve block off and check the bypass valve poppet and spring at the same time as you check the fuel flow from the tank. Two 3/8" bolts to take it off, don't drop the spring into the belly pan!

filters totally plugged NAPA 3164 (takes 4 filters) or probably as cheap from CAT. clean the housing while you have them out. drain is at the bottom. take off the top by removing 4 9/16" nuts and lift off the top with the bleed valve in it. Then carefully lift out the filter plate and filters. The filter retainers are sort of delicate, so be careful here! Set the whole assembly down on some clean flat surface and carefully push down on each spring and retainer before gently pushing the pin out of the square plastic rod that secures each filter to the filter plate. Fill clean housing with clean fuel before dropping the assembled filter plate and filters into the housing and replacing the top cover. Might need new gaskets or maybe some brush on sealer if the old ones are cracked. If you replace them make sure the fuel passage holes line up when you put them back on.

Easy way to bleed the air from the fuel system is to clamp a piece of a tire inner tube with the valve stem in it over the tank filler and inflate with compressed air until it bulges out tight. Then you can bleed all of the fuel system including the injector lines without running your battery down or working the pony hard.

If the unit has been sitting a long time there is a possibility the fuel rack is stuck and possibly injector lifters as well. Take the side cover off the fuel injection pump and see that rack movement responds to throttle movement and all the lifters go up and down when turning the engine over. Gentle prying and loose juice usually gets things going again.

I don't really have a diagram of the fuel injection system other than parts diagrams but there is not much to it. If things don't recover easily we can dive deeper after trying the easy stuff.

Thank you ccjersey and old magnet....This is where we will start on the fuel system and then go from there....One step at a time! Found a few things that I am not real happy with and wasn't told about, but this is life and all can be fixed. Thank you again and any advice is good advice.

Just a link to a startup on youtube I know you don't have an operating pony right now, but this will illustrate the startup however you actually turn it over.

About 2:40 after the pony is warmed up, he engages the pinion clutch and begins to turn the main engine. Notice that there is some slight smoke from the exhaust. This is not enough smoke for the engine to run, the throttle is still closed until about 3:00 and it starts almost immediately after he opens the throttle. On a cold day, the time he spent running the pony motor with the compression release IN so the main engine is making compression and heating up the cylinders would likely need to be longer. Warming the main engine with compression release lever in should be done with throttle closed so diesel fuel does not accumulate in the cylinders before the engine is warm enough to fire.

If you have direct electric start, you will most likely have to use ether starting fluid even if it is quite warm. Just make sure you are able to turn the engine quite fast and you are getting fuel into it (lots of white smoke) and then give it a good couple seconds spray into the air filter hood. The ether will go through the oil bath air cleaner just fine and the engine should at least make some black smoke if not take off on it's own.

I do not have any qualms about using starting fluid on these old CATs. CAT original equipment for electric start models included a starting aid that had ether bottles that you put in a compartment and punched to discharge into the intake manifold. You have a lot more conrol over a spray can than that. Of course this also means that you can spray too much, but most folks are cautious enough about using it if they're starting their own tractor that it is not a problem. If it won't pop on a healthy spray of starting fluid, something is wrong!

Another link by KansasCat the host of the "SPRING FLING" get together for the last several years. This is to show what you should be seeing inside the injection pump housing if you need to go in and unstick the rack/a stuck pump plunger.

Here is another starting video done by Sasquatch who posts here and over on ACME. He explains a bit about the whole pony start procedure. His D2 is a lot tighter engine, not even a breath of smoke out of the exhaust with the throttle closed (no engine oil being burned in the cylinders!)

If it has an "Okie" starter conversion (without glow plugs) you will most likely have to use a snort of ether to get it going, that's after you are assured of fuel supply to the injectors.