Thank you again ccjersey for the wealth of information....since I will be at the cat house in the morning I will go ahead and try to get the filter for the hydraulic unit, since it is already off this would be the smart thing to do before putting everything together. The cat house is about 40 miles from here, but that isn't too bad a trip and once I have an account set up with them I can have stuff direct shipped to the house. Y'all have a good evening......I'm headin to bed and probably gonna have Cat dreams

The Wix #33164 is still a good number for the old sock type fuel filter.

The #46 Hyd. Control filter is a Wix #51165 (NAPA # 1165)(Cat #4A332) or #1S9150 and others.

Lady Cat Skinner,

Good to hear and see you have the tractor on your home turf. Old Magnet and CC have you on the right path to getting some clean fuel in the fuel system. Might not hurt to check the fuel tank or at least flush it out , and slip some clean fuel in. What condition does the oil look like on the main dip stick? If it's milkey looking like it has water in it, might pay to dump the oil and change filters. Check hydraulic oil level and change that filter as well.

Hauling that big a tractor with a fifth wheel and pickup is nuts, guess some people will try anything.

Might not be a bad idea once you get it running and moving around to change all your fluid compartments. Good luck with getting her up and running.

Woody

It's been a busy few days and wanted to wait and post something good We changed all the fuel filters, got all the trash out, got the rack moving and she cranked right up. My husband, the mechanic, was putting her thru her paces. The next thing on the list is that the clutch won't stay engaged. Any suggestions gentlemen??

Here's the link to the video

The diagnosis depends on how much "snap " there is when the clutch is pulled back. If it is adjusted too tight it won't snap over center and stay engaged and if it's too loose,again it won't snap but it may move when the lever is held back hard.

So some "machinery yoga " is on the program. Take out the floor plate or open it up over the clutch and then clean off the cover there on top of the clutch housing and remove it. By putting the transmission in neutral, you can roll the clutch over until you get to the clamp bolts that lock the adjustment ring. These will be 9/16 head 3/8" bolts and I think there are just two on opposite sides of the ring. They hold a small chunk of flat iron that clamps the ring. Loosen the bolt and tap the flat piece to make sure it is loose. Put the trans in gear to prevent the clutch from turning if needed.

When both are loose, with the clutch lever forward, turn the ring clockwise a few inches to tighten and test the engagement by pulling the clutch in. Adjustment is correct when it snaps in with a pretty stiff pull. How stiff is stiff? You need to be able to do it all day, so unless your operator is built like a gorilla it just needs to be a firm snap.

After adjustment is correct, retighten the lock bolts. These have been stripped before by overenthusiastic mechanics so some caution is advised. Book says 30 ft - lb.

If either tightening or loosening the clutch adjustment doesn't help, then check that the clutch lever and linkage, pins etc are not worn so badly that the lever hits the end of the slot in the floor plates before the clutch snaps in.

Have fun! Oh may want to tie the wrench to your hand when working jnside the clutch compartment:lol:

Noticed your 9U is missing the back top roller on the right side while I watching the video. Should be one a bit ahead of the back sprocket. Good to hear it running and I am sure it will get even better with a few hours run time and more new fuel through it.

ccjersey.....In regards to the clutch, it will pull back and the dozer will move but doesn't seem to be traveling enuf to fully snap. If you have about a foot from disengaged to fully engaged, it is only moving about 5 or 6 inches.

old magnet....yeah we know about the roller missing on top and there are more on the bottom that are worn out....The one that is missing on top, are we gonna have to replace the stand too?? Any hints on where to get rollers (hopefullly close by so we can eliminate freight)?

Also, one last question.....do you think there would be an issue with running the dozer about 1/4 mile to the house with the clutch being the way it is? At the house we got tools, air compressor and SHADE

Thanks for all the responses gents!

I would say the tractor should make it a quarter mile holding the clutch in. It may have gone many miles like that already:lol:

One question........What does the oil in the clutch look like? Is it milky? If not, does it lay smooth on the dip stick? Over full by a lot? Wondering if it might have water in it. It will run without the oil pump moving oil, but wear rate would be very high I think.

If the oil looks bad or has water in it and you drain it, There is a strainer to clean on the bottom of the clutch housing accessible from the rear of the housing. I don't think I have ever had one out of any of our tractors to check. An oil clutch is normally a very low maintenance component other than an occasional adjustment.

Your clutch sounds like it is adjusted too tight. I'm wondering if the clutch disks are swollen somehow (water???) or whether someone over tightened the adjustment or maybe the locks came loose and the engine spun the adjuster down tight.

ccjersey......Oil in clutch was low and not touching stick, added about a gallon of 15w40 to bring it up to line.....when we checked the stick again the oil is coffee colored, not milky. From what you described before about the clutch, I think it is too tight too. We will be going into the clutch housing to see what's going on with it. Thanks again for all the help. Taking it slow and easy....looking at everything before we put the hyd control unit back on (it is a #46 found the tag finally) and put the blade on.

Thank you!!!!

Move it to the shade ,but the way thing have gone for me lately you better do the opposite of what I tell you.There is nothing to swell in a oil clutch as the wear material is copper.From experience adjust the clutch before looking for bigger trouble.Had one that was new to me.Worked a 100 hours or so and worked OK all of a sudden clutch would not over center.The last one to do this had throw out bearing come apart,so I took this one apart expecting the same.Wrong as I am most of the time all the bearing were new just the clamps that hold ajustment were not tight.Hope the last operator didn't beat it to bad and the tractor doesn't fight you all the way.
Ray