"ol wrote:

I went out and checked my 12E yesterday. The square bar shaft measures 7/8" square and rather than rebuild that part, I'd go ahead and carefully grind out the weld at the lower coupling and replace with a new piece. The tube portion measures 1 1/4" square on the outside so while the size isn't an oddball size, it has the weld flash removed from the inside so it might be harder to replace.

Thanks 'ol grump, I will see if I can just drop some new square tube in there, I may gusset the corners some to so they dont blow out like that in the future. In the mean time I think I may knock them almost square again and run some beads, its getting to be winter time!

"Grader wrote:

I would like to do the orginal color instead of the 'dirty' yellow cat uses these days, do any of you guys have a paint code or some other way to get a close match for my paint?

I agree with the "dirty Cat Yellow". It reminds me of "Grey Poupon Mustard". I'm old-fashioned and like the old, blue-collar workin' man's mustard better. None of that "hoity toity yuppie mustard" for me!

"zootownjeepguy" wrote:

I agree with the "dirty Cat Yellow". It reminds me of "Grey Poupon Mustard". I'm old-fashioned and like the old, blue-collar workin' man's mustard better. None of that "hoity toity yuppie mustard" for me!

I'm using RAL 1028 (melon yellow) on my D4, it's very similar to old JCB and looks just the job for the older machine:



Julian.

Dude,

You're correct about the switch on the master cylinder. .it's the stop light switch. Hot wire to one side, wire from the other side to turn light switch on the steering column support (if it's still there) and then the two wires to the tail/brake lights. Mine was gone so I just wired the brake lights together.

On wiring, when I splice wires I solder 'em with rosin core solder and use heat shrink tubing over the splice. Acid core solder is a sure way to create corrosion in splices! I bought some split plastic tubing from an electric shop and then put that over the wires with plenty of "p" clips to support the wiring. Any place wire(s) goes through a hole, I put rubber grommets in. Vibration will eat the insulation off 'em unless you do.

Yup, winter is on the way. A few more weeks and I'll get the old critter in the yard and iron up the wheels. Everything else has been checked out so that's the last thing to do before the white stuff starts flying once again. We have three seasons a year here; mud, dust and snow:lol:

hello to all, firstly I would like to say this thread is a great source of knowledge for these old jiggers. We have not long ago purchased a 12e 21f1077 and just about every issue you fellas have been talking about we have got to a greater or lesser degree. The biggest problem with ours is in the dog clutches in the power control box, so as soon as harvest is out of the road I may be having a dig around in there and seeing what I wreck. The next biggest issue is the wheel lean, although not quite as "played with" as Grader Dude's, its still a bit on the sloppy side. I am not sure I am ready to embark on a full front end rebuild yet, but who knows I may have a weak moment in January when its too bloody hot to do anything outside the shed.

Anyway after all that dribble, I wanted to say thanks for the great info and keep us posted with your progress Grader Dude because I bet there is more than a few people out there going through the same thing.

Steve

PS deas plant, its a damn shame you are on the other side of the country, if you were a bit closer you would be in for some serious brain picking

Hi, Stevo.
I suspect that you may be labouring under a GROSS misapprehension, to wit, that I ackshully have a brain to pick. By way of proof of my 'NO-Brainer' status, I offer as evidence my continuing involvement with old machinery.

On a more serious note, have you ever heard of e-mail? Check my profile. Or, better yet, add your queries to this thread where they may be of benefit to many.

How heavy are the fronts of these for plowing? She came with a scarafier (off the machine) everything is there except one draught arm and the teeth, I was thinking of mounting it for some extra weight in the front, any input guys?

Hi, Grader Dude.
Jeez, you ask a lotta kwestyuns. THAT is VERY good way to learn, especially if you get good answers.

These jiggers were DESIGNED to have the weight of the front-mounted scarifier on the front wheels for their best steering performance. If you really want to understand this, go find one that has had the front scarifier removed and a rear-mounted ripper added, take it out on some nice, dewy grass and try to steer it. Those locked-up rear tandems will try to keep that jigger going straight ahead, lean wheels and all.

Properly used, the front scarifiers were a valuable tool on those early graders. They were NOT, contrary to what some people seemed to think, a substitute for a D9G with a single-shank paralellogram ripper but they were very handy for loosening hard fill or soils, for scarifying a hard, smooth top prior to adding more fill and also for drying and/or mixing materials.

Hope this helps.

As an update.

I cut that spacer plate/rebar cluster cut out. There was some sort of angle iron scabbed onto the front axle above the lean pinon, I removed it, got one bolt put back in on either side but could not get the axle, spacer and gear all lined up for the center bolt, any idea how crucial that is? The reason for the chain on the other side seems to be to keep from leaning the top of the tires too far left(As previously guessed by Deas), it also restricts the axle from osilating too far. The last tooth on the lean pinion has broken off, however I think it may not be needed, the one to the other side is not very large. I plan on pulling the shackle holding that chain and see what it will do. Hopefully she wont flop over and I can remove that junk pretty soon. I also picked up a gallon of industrial enamel to start painting her up with. The original color is not easy to match! Right now I am somewhere between old and current cat yellows, I painted a test sample and will see how it looks in the morning, I think I will be headed back to the paint store to add some more yellow tomorrow. The drain pan seems to have a leak, but I will drop it and install a new gasket or make one out of RTV. It also looks like one of the chain cases is leaking gear oil, I have not been able to locate it yet, but I am afraid it will not be an easy fix. I am going to get some oil for it I am guessing ~4 gal 15w 40 does anyone know the spec for this bad boy? Also is there a way to check the level/ cleanliness of the hydraulic fluid?

You guys are the best

Edit.
Deas you talked me into the scarafier, I unloaded it off the trailer today and got it ready to drag under the machine. I think my 2wd '71 cChevy should have its work cut out for it tomorrow. Btw those graders can make a descent crane of need be

I removed one of the wires between the generator and regulator in my mass wiring extermination. I replaced it and checked voltage when it was running next and did not get any voltage between the (+) on the regulator and ground. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Perhaps I committed a sin and ruined something?