It is much easier to just pull the top off the carb while on the machine. Use a good carb cleaner with a straw to blow through all the ports. Especially the one that runs through the bottom of the bowl. That should be good enough to get it running to start the main engine.

Thank you Kracked1, that was the tip I was looking for.  The top looks pretty easy to get off so I'll give that a go when I go back there.

you coat just the bolting face and it is to improve the conductivity by filling the little imperfections (pencil is graphite graphite is carbon carbon is conductive). the current returns to the mag via the engine casting and the magneto's case. be careful to not get it anywhere else. i should have explained that better. it was a trick shown to me by a old mechanic. ive used it and it works.

yes it was a nasty trick to play on apprentices to draw a line down a spark plug with a pencil it created a misfire.

Magneto Timing -
Be certain you have that timing correct - it has been a long time since I was around one, still, be sure you have #1 cylinder on TDC (compression stroke) and the Mag is firing to #1. That should put you close enough to get the engine to run. Without knowing the timing is correct, you risk severe "kickback" where that rope will be pulled from your hand under power from the engine firing.

Someone with more recent experience and recollection hopefully will chime in here on proper Timing Procedures on this machine. Should be some "marks" to line up.

Fuel for Starting Engine --- you mention "trickle". Make sure the glass sediment bowl is full and if you pull the line from the carburetor or discharge end of the bowl, it should run freely. Those engines depend upon gravity to properly fill the float bowl and if something is a bit gummed up or sticky, a weak flow will cause you headaches.
(that sediment bowl gasket can be made from a cereal box if you get in a pinch - I have used that cardboard for many gaskets over the years)

Yes - that is what I was thinking of when asked if you had checked that box.

A couple of thoughts - since this machine has been sitting for extended time -- be watchful with the Cable Control Unit - when the engine turns under starting engine power, is the CCU engaged (lifting the dozer)? This would be the ideal time to know, as once Main fires, there will be very little time for reaction.

Steering Clutches are CLUTCHES -- if the master clutch fails or does not release, pulling both friction levers and standing on the brakes "should" stop the machine from moving. This is "IF" both steering clutches will release. Just an additional thought directed toward safety - a little forethought and prepardness goes a long way in emergency situation..

Wishing you the best of luck - you are making progress!

There should be a pointer and timing marks located behind the pony and on the pulley for the rope. Clean up back there and maybe use a wire brush to find the markings. JM

Hi Langdon,
If you remove the top off the float bowl you may find that the float is made out of cork and with the new fuel we have it will dissolve the varnish off it, new floats are available from Cat.
If you do take the whole float bowl off the carby and you go to put it on be very careful not to over tighten the 7/16 bolts as the pot metal is very soft and will strip out.

Parts required
1 x 9b4922 float
1 x 9b4838 gasket between bowl and carby
1 x 3b4674 gasket between carby and manifold
1 x 4b8977 gasket between carby and intake manifold
1 x 4f7810 gasket between intake manifold and oil BREATHER

Hope this helps

Regards

Trainzkid88 - that's a good trick with the pencil.  The connection so far seems pretty good, but metal gasket that is currently on the magneto is definitely in need of replacement.  I'll look into that down the track when I get it running I think.

CTS - timing issue noted.  I see Juiceman posted some info on timing marks just after your post, so I'll check that out.

Regarding the fuel flow - yes the sediment bowl is filling full and the flow of fuel at the carburetor seemed ok when the sediment bowl and inline filter filled up.  I expect that will improve when it's sat for a while and the fuel has broken up any blockages.  I'm hoping that will be the case for the carburetor as well.

Regarding settings for controls - I have looked through the operators manual and familiarised myself.  I'll be sure to double check that everything is in neutral positions before cranking the diesel over.

Yes the clutches are an unknown at this point so I will be making sure that I can shut down the diesel quickly in an emergency.  An ounce of preparation...

Thank you, yes it's good to work through these issues one by one and see them being resolved!

Rax200 - thank you for the info and for the part numbers for the carburetor!  That's most useful.  I will just go with pulling the top off it for the moment and see where that gets me.  Warning on the soft metal noted!

Juiceman - thank you for that info I'll investigate for timing marks next time I work on it.

From memory I think that there is only one orientation for the magneto connection to the pony motor drive gear, so I expect I don't need to do anything there.