rolls of gasket material are still available. you have to ask for though most engine rebuilders have the wide rolls. the other is to use one of the loctite gasket products 515 master gasket or 518 gasket eliminator one is for cast flanges the other is for stamped metal. there is also the old fashioned "stag" jointing paste which primarily for metal pipework but works as a gasket sealer too.

and of course the form-a-gasket no1,2 or 3, there is a hard setting paste, a non hardning paste and a non hardening liquid which is number 3.

as cts suggested using a tiny ball pein hammer works very well for cutting gaskets to the exact size and very neat. you tap gently so you bassically just bruise the paper enough it breaks on the line. also works on cork but not as good. you come in on a angle so the edge of the part becomes the cutting edge

CTS and Trainkidz88 - thank you for the info. I'll see if I can track down a roll of gasket material.  It seems like the most sensible option. I have the Cat gasket ordered for injector rack, but it definitely won't hurt to be able to make my own. I had heard of/seen people using a ball pein hammer to cut a gasket, but I had totally forgotten that trick. Thank you for the reminder!

Regarding the glue - is that required with the gasket? I have no experience with replacing them, so I guess I'm going to have to do some research.

Temp bulb - yes it seems likely that it's dead. Not sure what to do about that. Do you know anything about alternatives, or should I try to find a replacement? Either way, I'll probably need a new gauge as well.

Hi, LanfdonStevenson.
Try your friendly local cat dealer for the temp sensor too. They should have a parts section in their listings for older machines under a heading like "Vintage Machines" or something similar. I can't remember the exact name of it but I have had to have them look up parts for a Cat 660A scraper under that section.

Just my 0.02.

Deas I believe it is the Classic tractor line they look under.

Hi, kracked1.
Yep, that is the one I was trying to think of. THANK YOU.

Just my 0.02.

I find it helpful to put the sticky gasket goop on one side and anti seize or grease on the other side of gaskets, if I may want to remove the part again and hopefully reuse gasket.

a gasket dressing does 2 things it helps it seal better and helps hold that gasket in place while you put the bolts in. and if your mating faces aren't that flash its a must to use something.
a smear of grease or anti seize helps hold that gasket in place and works well on inspection covers as it allows you to most times remove the gasket with out breaking it and shelling out or making a new one. such as the clutch compartment cover or gear box inspection cover. it does help with sealing but not much works well to keep dust out though.

there is a place for using rtv silicone sealant which is often on pressed metal flanges such as rocker covers and the side plates on engines that have lifters and push-rods as these often weep oil and its one of the few things that work. the secret is use sparingly if its forced out the side you used too much.

trainzkid88 wrote:

yes thats exactly what that is. a mechanical temp guage bulb. look for a bung in the side of the block
 

Never seen one plugged into the side of the block before. Normally they tap into the side of the water pump or the head or the pipe above/around the thermostat.

Genuine capillary gauges are still available. No need to look at the Classic range. I recently purchased one for my 5R D6. Didn't they change its name to Yellow Mark?

Rolls of gasket material can be sourced from auto shops such as Auto One or Repco in various thicknesses and widths.

Cutting gaskets with a hammer is not a neat way of forming a gasket. It is quick and easy sure but it is not neat.If you do use this method tap out the bolt holes first as that allows you to drop a bolt in the hole to hold it in place while finishing the perimeter and helps prevents the gasket tearing when tapping in the bolt holes. I find it best to tap the bolt holes enough to mark the gasket for a location and then use a wad punch to punch the hole. That way the bolt holes in the gasket are a closer fit to the bolt and usually leaves more material between the bolt hole and the perimeter of the gasket.

As for sealants, I never use them unless I have a persistent leak or weeping that can't be solved by correct and even bolt tension or the gasket is the jig saw join type that Cat use on large gaskets and then its only to hold it in place. A good seal with a gasket is easy to achieve provided you have a good flat surface and all the old gasket is removed.

I never use RTV silicon as I have seen too many failures caused by solidified excess sealant blocking oil orifices and galleries.

Deas - well that would be nice if they still make that part! I’m going to wait until I have a running pony and diesel before I start replacing things like the temp sensor. I expect most of it will need to be flown over from the US so I’ll try to do a bulk order and save on the shipping.

Ray54 and Trainzkid88 - thank you, that makes sense about making gaskets easier to place and remove and avoid damaging.