So a friend has a D6 dozer on their farm that they want to be rid of and have offered it to me in return for fixing their one kilometer long driveway (more than a fair trade I think if the D6 is any good).

Right now I know nothing about it other than: "It broke down after building a dam 10 years ago and has been sitting in the paddock ever since".

That could be as simple as a blown hose, as bad a seized motor, or anything in between.  I'm planning to go have a look at it and try to figure out what its problem/s are.  To that end does anyone have suggestions of things to check?  What I've come up with so far:

• Inspect hydraulic hoses and hydraulic oil level
• Does the motor turn over? - can I test this by hand, or would it have to be done with batteries/pony motor?
• Check for water in engine oil

Please feel free to add things I should look at/for.  I'd also be looking at the basics:

• Wear on the undercarriage (idlers, chains, sprockets, grousers)
• Wear in hydraulic ram pins and bushings
• Leaking seals on rams (might be hard to know after so long idle in the paddock)
• Engine oil leaks

Given the machine's location I'll have to get it running to be able to get it out.  No way to get a low loader in to haul it out, so whatever is wrong is going to have to be fixed on site so that I can walk it out to the road and a truck.

Ultimately I'll probably employ a diesel/dozer mechanic in the area to do the actual work of getting it running.  I don't have enough tools and experience to make it practical, but that's ok, if it's in OK shape then it's worth investing a few dollars in.

So, any thoughts and ideas that anyone has will be greatly appreciate.  Thank you in advance!

Yes you might be lucky and it is something simple. I have a wide D6 4R that uses the same drive train but has a different engine. The flange on the input shaft into the gearbox is welded to the shaft and has broken several times on mine necessitating the removal and disassembly of the gearbox.Has never happened on the 5R machines so I assume it is caused by greater load due to the wide tracks.
Fiber links on the main clutch are also problematic especially if the engine is not aligned correctly.
Have had brake bands snap due to corrosion.
Not sure about the D318 but you can turn the D4600 using the fan if the belt is tight enough if not you can turn it over with a lever in the clutch.

Thank you Phil, that's all very useful information to have.  Gives me a few places to start.

I might do some research on the D318 engine.

A D4600 has a nut on the crankshaft accessible under the radiator (1 3/4” if I recall). You can get a socket with extension on it and try to turn it over that way. Not sure if the D318 has the same set up.

Hi, LangdonStevenson..
Try the gentler ways first, pressing hard on the fan belt while trying to turn the fan both ways, trying to gently bar the flywheel over or - if there is a nut on the crankshaft pulley - trying to turn that with a socket and bar. You really ned to rotate it a full revolution to be sure that it is fully free.

Make sure you have the decompressor in the Start position so that you are not battling compression. (I.D.10T. mistake.)

Just my 0.02.

The D318 also has a nut on the crankshaft but it's bigger.....2-3/8" if I'm remembering correctly.

pictures would help

yes we had a 3cyl ruston diesel that was in the local councils first excavator. this thing was that old it was cable operated and could be a dragline or excavator depending how it was setup.

you could wind it over with the crank handle till the decompressor was released then she would stop you and then try and dislocate your shoulder as it rolled back from compression

This machine if it is hydraulic will have the drive for the hydraulic pump mounted to the crankshaft pulley so you won't be able to access the nut. Similarly if it had a front PCU/CCU it would not be accessible

The D4600 has a nut with spurs on it for a crank handle. The La Plante Choate hydraulic pump has a cap on it that you can remove to fit a crank handle.

If a Cat pump and the u joint you can use a short bar in the u joint. Of course may have to remove a belly guard to get bar in and to turn. You can also turn from the clutch end. The later wet clutch is easier with the espoused u joint between clutch and transmission. But with the clutch cover off the dry clutch it can be used to turn the engine as well.