The way you speak toward the "ordeal" of reaching the machine, the time/labor involved in repairing the access road, drive to and from the machine, and mechanic from a service company -- the multitude of unknowns -- are you certain you really want to tackle this one? How available are parts if needed and how costly where you are?
With the unknown condition of the "dozer" are you certain it is up to the task of rebuilding that road - if you do get it started - lot of questions to answer, lot of unknowns.

Have you checked each and all of the "boxes" for oil, contamination, checked the crankcase, looked at the water (cooling system) including radiator - so many things that are necessary. A magnet that will fit into some of those inspection plugs or drain holes can tell you a lot about conditions of the machine - metal filings at tattle tales.

Looking at your pictures of the track pads - this machine has seen a lot of running - maybe the rails and rollers have been changed? Have you checked to see if the pins and bushing have been turned? Leakage around the sprockets?
Clutch - does it snap over and release? Steering friction levers - move and return properly? Brakes?
Does the throttle operate?

How are the fuel tanks and fuel if any exist, both for starting engine and the main? Contaminated, water- etc? Certainly BEFORE you put gasoline in the starting engine tank -- remove the line before it reaches the carburetor --- you do not want to send all that rust-debris to the carburetor - I would suggest installing an IN LINE FILTER as insurance.

AS mentioned earlier --- a chain under the blade for towing, keeps the blade up. I certainly would remove that "spear" before towing or transporting. Looks to me like a perfect accident waiting to happen with an unknown "running gear". Think about the radius of that if something did not release _ IE STEERING CLUTCH OR MASTER CLUTCH!

RE- Auxiliary Power for the starting engine -- A good engine with V belt drive will work - BUT -- you have to ensure the Starting engine and Drive are functional on the tractor before you attempt to help the Starting Engine with auxiliary unit. Failure here is not an option - applying power to the flywheel of the Starting Engine can be damaging and dangerous - Not something to attempt alone or without knowing the rest of the system is capable and operational. These engines were not designed to be powered from the flywheel - especially considering the HP and torque being applied vs what a person with a rope would impart.

There are a multitude of small gasoline engines out and about -- something as simple as a horizontal crankshaft lawn mower engine will work -
A barn door hinge, some small bolts and a long board with a long v-belt, engine will hold tension on the belt "C" clamps are wonderful helpers!
"THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX"

What-ever you do - remember - some of the "fixes" one attempts have consequences - some of them are life changing. DO IT SAFELY!

CTS

Hi CTS. Yes there are a lot of unknowns and the machine is in a difficult location. It's not a sure thing by any means.

That's part of why I'm looking for a mechanic with experience on older machinery to assist.

I've checked what I could check without tools and there were no obvious issues. All of the controls move and feel like they are operating. Oil looked good in the main motor. Couldn't get the radiator cap off, so coolant is unknown. There were no obvious seal leaks. As mentioned the ends of the push arms are flogged out and really need replacing. There's no doubt that she's done a lot of work.

I appreciate the warning about the dangers, so thank you. I'm going into this with my eyes open and that's another reason why I'm prepared to spend a bit of money to get professional help with getting it running - not just chucking some fuel in it and letting it rip.

I sincerely hope you are successful in getting the machine running and home!
Keep us appraised of your findings and progress.
There are more following your thread than you know or see - many do not comment or chime in - do not be bashful about asking for help - there are so many here that have that knowledge and share if only asked.

As in all rescues - there are no sure bets, sometimes you manage to find a real winner and others you end up wondering why and what you stepped in.

Good Luck -

"keep 'em crawlin' "
cts

Thank you CTS I will definitely keep this thread updated as things progress. I appreciate the encouragement and I'm very grateful for the knowledge shared here and the help and suggestions I've had so far on this project and for my 212 grader. ACMOC is without a doubt an invaluable resource.

 

Langdon, maybe there are some members in Chapter 29 who maybe able to help you, have you canvassed any of them for assistance?

Wombat

Wombat - no I haven't. I'll think on that though. I wanted to at least inspect the machine (determine if it's trash or treasure) before I imposed on anyone

Dont think of it as imposing. Most of us LOVE a good adventure checking on yellow gold!

a 2000 watt generator will run a electric motor big enough for that.

Kracked1 - good to know!

trainzkid88 wrote:

one way to tell which way a tree naturally wants to go is to look for the heel spur at the stump by that i mean the main root that is biggest as generally that is the weighted side and that root is holding up the tree. wind will change all of that and the tree can still turn in mid air as the weight shifts.

the best way to push trees is with a excavator with ripper tine you rip around the tree first then you push it the excavator allows you to get a higher leverage point. bonus they are more manoeuvrable than a dozer and if they have a grab you can make nice neat windrow heaps of the tree waste, stack the logs and clean up of the resulting hole is easy
 

You advice is going to get someone hurt or killed.
There have been far too many fatalities by even skilled operators using an excavator to push trees over. Most excavators do not have the correct cabin protection for tree pushing. They are also slower (track wise) and have less pushing ability than a correctly outfitted dozer.
Also if the tree slides off the side of the bucket then it can follow the boom of the excavator straight onto the cab where as the tree pusher helps to push the tree away from the operator due to  the side frames of the tree pusher.. That's one reason I do not like the narrow center mount tree pushers.

Also a 2000w generator will only run a 1.9kw motor or 2.5hp so I doubt that will start the engine. 42MT starter motors are 7.8KW or 10.5 hp.