I was out working in the garage today. I set the impulse on the mag to 30 degrees. So now the impulse trips right at tdc and the mag mark lines up with the rotor in mag. It was set at 20 degrees before. I have the wires all in the correct order. I took the plugs out and watched them spark in the correct order when I was cranking. The points open up right as the mag mark lines up on front pulley. I have tried a little gas in spark plug holes and a little ether in intake haven't gotten more than some backfires out the exhaust. Sorry for the rambling but I'm not sure what to do from here. If anyone has any suggestions it would be apreciated

Hi Dan,
now assuming that your ignition is timed and sequenced correctly, when cranking with the spark plugs in, does each cylinder seem to have compression/resistance ?
A possibility is if one or more cylinders have little or no compression you may have crud stuck on a valve seat holding one or both of that cylinder's valves open. If this cylinder tries to fire with a leaking valve/s then it can bang in either manifold--depending weather it is an Inlet or Exhaust valve that is leaking.

If you previously checked your valve lash and found some loose--maybe due to crud under the valve--and you adjusted the valve lash, now the crud may have been dislodged and so you could have no valve lash on the loose ones, so now the valve/s do not get to seat and so leak by, as evidenced by the banging in the manifolds.

A rather rough way of maybe getting a leaky valve, held open by crud, to seat is to lightly tap the end of the rocker arm over the valve end on a valve that has lash clearance and with the piston down from TDC but on the compression stroke-- with a soft face hammer a few times so as to bounce the valve on and off its seat and see if the crud can be dislodged and the valve to seat better to allow a start. Once the engine is running the leaks usually settle down--if not a valve grind may be in your future.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks. There seems to be pretty even resistance but not a ton of it. I'll give the tapping method a try and see if anything changes.

Well I went back out in the garage and tried some things. And I came up with my plug wires were screwed up I watched for what cylinder was on compression stroke and then what plug sparked and matched them all up and now I got it to fire up! Now I have to work on my carb tuning! Gauge said 50lbs oil psi so that seems good!
Thank you to everyone who helped me!

That is awesome news

Hi Dan,
thanks for relaying your good news.
Remember, we all started with very little knowledge of these things magneto.
I was lucky to be taught by my Dad and later on by Cat Tradesmen.
I got to overhaul magnetos at The Dealer way back when.

Sometimes the learning curve can be steep BUT perseverance and thinking outside the box can do wonders.

Cheers,
Eddie B.