I suppose a scraper with multiple cylinders and circuits could work with one spool if the circuits were coordinated with a sequenceing valve(s)
Also, on a 44 pump the spool could be locked in position to provide constant flow, and a multi spool control (open center) from the scraper would direct the oil to tank return or cylinder movement.

Hi, CR.
Check the sketches that I posted earlier. That idea was based on keeping most of the existing hitch assembly, including the horizontal pivot. With my current understanding of the situation, I would delete the plate going under the drawbar swing frame and make it a single point straight to the drawbar clevis with a somewhat longer tongue. I would then lock out the vertical 'kingpost' pivot so that it no longer pivotted there and add a hydraulic ram between the top of the 'kingpost' and drawbar tongue leading to the tractor. Having a longer tongue from the scraper would also reduce the effects of the tractor's pitching on the scraper.

For the 'hydraulics experts', it is definitely possible to operate this scraper with a second circuit to raise and lower the bowl/cutting edge from a single circuit on the tractor. You only need to add a diverter valve AFTER the control valve in the hydraulic tank to enable changing from one circuit on the scraper to the other and back again.

Here is a photo of such an installation that I did on 7UPuller's D6C prior to the Tulare show last year. In this case, the diverter changes between the apron and ejector circuits and is very easy to use 'cos it is set right under the end of the standard hydraulic control lever. You only have to drop your hand down, move the diverter valve to where you want it and lift your hand back up to the control lever. The diverter valve handle is the small black handle showing almost vertical between the master clutch lever and the front of the right armrest on the seat.



Just my 0.02.

Deas I am not following your sketch on how you are going to control the depth of the cutting edge to replace what the three point circuit previously controlled.

"Deas wrote:

Hi, CR.
Check the sketches that I posted earlier. That idea was based on keeping most of the existing hitch assembly, including the horizontal pivot. With my current understanding of the situation, I would delete the plate going under the drawbar swing frame and make it a single point straight to the drawbar clevis with a somewhat longer tongue. I would then lock out the vertical 'kingpost' pivot so that it no longer pivotted there and add a hydraulic ram between the top of the 'kingpost' and drawbar tongue leading to the tractor. Having a longer tongue from the scraper would also reduce the effects of the tractor's pitching on the scraper.

For the 'hydraulics experts', it is definitely possible to operate this scraper with a second circuit to raise and lower the bowl/cutting edge from a single circuit on the tractor. You only need to add a diverter valve AFTER the control valve in the hydraulic tank to enable changing from one circuit on the scraper to the other and back again.

Here is a photo of such an installation that I did on 7UPuller's D6C prior to the Tulare show last year. In this case, the diverter changes between the apron and ejector circuits and is very easy to use 'cos it is set right under the end of the standard hydraulic control lever. You only have to drop your hand down, move the diverter valve to where you want it and lift your hand back up to the control lever. The diverter valve handle is the small black handle showing almost vertical between the master clutch lever and the front of the right armrest on the seat.



Just my 0.02.

That D6C and scraper works slick to. The diverter valve simply lets one control do more than one function.

Step one done. I replaced the pins to fit the cat. 1 hitch on my Jubilee. Next is hooking up the hydraulics. I can do some test runs and start figuring out the math to articulate the scrapers tongue and get the proper vertical travel. I was thinking diverter valve all along. I can plumb into the rear lines easily and mount the valve on the fender. It seems like it would be a lot easier than adding a circuit to my #44 or adding pumps and valves.






This hitch is pretty clever really.

Hi, Case on a Cat.
Lookin' good. I see you are onto it. I always thought that hitch was pretty good from the first moment I figured out that it was intended for a 3-pt linkage system without the top link - - - and that didn't take long either.

Dumb suggestion - if you don't already have water or some form of liquid ballast in those tractor 'tahrs' - BOTH ends - I suspect you would find a marked improvement in traction and and fore-n-aft stability by adding water to them - WITH some corrosion inhibitor if you are running tubeless. Liquid ballast to about 3/4 filled means that you can run the tires at a lower pressure which gives you a bigger 'footprint' and more traction. Filling the front tires as well helps to keep the front down but also gives better traction 'cos there is more weight transference from front to back under load.

The biggest issue with rigging a diverter valve is routing all the hoses - 6 of 'em for the set=up that I put on 7UPuller's D6C. Yours probably won't need to be as big and thus not as hard to get around the corners - and there'll be less corners anyway up on the fender, just more clamps and mounts.

Go gitt'erdunn, gitt'er dirty and show us the 'foeterz' to prove it. LOL.

Just my 0.02.

Hi, CR.
Maybe you are not following that idea on those sketches 'cos they were done before I realized that the hydraulics on the scraper did not cater for lowering the cutting edge into the ground to load. As I have mentioned in later posts, now that I know that, and assuming that it needed to be modified to work with the D2 instead of a 3-pt linkage, I would do it differently, as I described in those later posts.

Just my 0.02.

you need to make sure you put a bolt thru them brackets on your lift arms to stop the whole show coming adrift when you are turning corners and Im not talk about the lynch pins either further down towards the front were the hitch sort of goes around the lift arms but your on the right track for a wheeled tractor I reckon much quicker than your crawler and will do a lot finer work as well to boot

Water ballast is critical on this type of work with scoops on wheeled tractors fill them as much as you can around 90% 3/4 full is only any good for heavy agg work
On land leveling you need as much grip as you can as wheel slip will get you bogged in seconds on a agg tractor as the tread pattern is a lot more aggressive than a earth moving tyre
Also keep the pressure up in the rear tyres so when the scoops full the tyres arent bulging much other wise you will go thru a lot of tubes as they will scuff on the walls of the tyre and also pinch on any internal cracks of the tyre walls

I have done a lot of leveling work with agg tractors and this is my experience and they are a lot different to drive than a scraper not harder to drive but a lot different but in most conditions they will out perform modern scrapers by a long way ( probably shouldnt say that on a Cat forum )


Paul

Yup I saw those bolt holes and thought the same thing about bending the hitch pins.

And yup yup, my rear tires are as full of water as I could cram in there. There's tubes, so nothing to worry about except the valve cores corroding. I have front wheel weights and added the bumper.

Unfortunately I might be out of time for now. My wife and I are buying a house and are fortunate enough to keep our current house. We have a lot of projects to get our current house ready to rent and spruce up the new place.

My focus is definitely on finishing the holt blade for my D2. I am planning to compact and grade a site for a small mobile home. I'm thinking the scraper will make spreading layers of dirt evenly for the sheeps foot easy.

Thanks for all the input. My wife was skeptical that the scraper was worth it, since I do have a nice gannon for the Jubilee, but all the interest from the pro's has her convinced I am aimed in the right direction.