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Pull scraper
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7 years 10 months ago #157027
by case on a cat
I picked this up today. Thanks to D4e for finding the add.
It's got a goofy home made hitch. I plan to only use it with my D2. My wheeled tractor can do it, but I feel like the D2 is a better fit. The hitch is bolted on, so I'm thinking about setting it aside and building a new hitch from scratch. The D2 has the #44 hydraulic pump, diverter valve and rear lines. It's all pretty set.
So, I have a couple questions. How do I determine the finished height of the scrapers hitch relative to my D2's draw bar? The pan only has a single action. The rear portion rotates.
I like pintle loops and was even thinking of making the pintle hitch vertically adjustable sorta like some equipment trailers. Any suggestions for hitch types or design?
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7 years 10 months ago #157028
by mrsmackpaul
so are you thinking of a set of wheels at the front of the scoop with the new hitch ???
As you may find with out them it will be hard to get a nice finish as crawler moves up and down a lot more than a wheeled tractor
Paul
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7 years 10 months ago #157029
by Deas Plant.
Hi, Case on a Cat.
UNLESS I miss my guess, that 'goofy home-made hitch' was made by someone who had a pretty fair understanding of what he was doing to attach to a 3-point linkage system on a wheel tractor WITHOUT needing the top link of the 3-pt hitch. It already has the pivot points for all 3 planes of movement built into it, horizontal and vertical pivot and tilt. I think you could do a WHOLE LOT worse than sticking with what you have there and modifying it to fit your D2 drawbar. See the attached 'black-n-white' print for some idea of the way I am thinking.
(This sketch work comes from the same fine art MS Paint facility as the previous lot in an earlier post. LOL.)
Azfer drawbar height, set the scraper on the ground behind the D2 withe present drawbar horizontal beam set on blocks at the same height as your D2 drawbar clevis, hook up the hydraulic lines and go through the full range of stroke to see what you currently have and what you need to do to make it work.
The advantage of keeping the current hitch and modifying it is that the unit would be easier to reverse into anywhere than if you use dolly wheels and a drawbar tongue.
Just my 0.02.
You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
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7 years 10 months ago #157031
by janmeermans
Carl,
Nice little pan for your D2.
IMHO, you could go two ways for sure. The more complicated hitch would be to start with two arms from a 3 point hitch (tractor bone yeard) then tie them together with a double plate and lead out from the center (like a sandwich) with a say 8 inch plate with a hole for your drawbar pin to go through. You would then have two places to accommodate the forward pitching of the D2 as it moves.
The easier way would be to take a similar plate with some gussets and weld that to the approximately 4 inch pipe directly under the vertical pin and let the slop in the drawbar pin and holes take care of the pitching of the tractor. Lots of ways to go here and you will find a way. As Deas suggests, it would be a good idea to position both together and operate the hydraulics to give you an idea of how much movement you have to work with.
Get 'er done so it can go with the rest of the load to SM!
Jan
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7 years 10 months ago #157038
by cr
I think I would hook that thing to a wheel tractor and understand how it operates before I start cutting and modifying.
Most of the Overland and Eversman scrapers used the two lower links of the three point hitch to raise and lower the blade as well as pull it. The hydraulic cylinder operated the dump mechanism.
At least this is how the little scrapers like that I have operated or the neighbors had.
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7 years 10 months ago #157040
by juiceman
I think I would hook that thing to a wheel tractor and understand how it operates before I start cutting and modifying.
Most of the Overland and Eversman scrapers used the two lower links of the three point hitch to raise and lower the blade as well as pull it. The hydraulic cylinder operated the dump mechanism.
At least this is how the little scrapers like that I have operated or the neighbors had.
Same deal here; my brother has a small Overland (1 1/4 yards?) exactly as CR points out: draft arms lift/ lower the cutting edge and provides the pulling point; the hydraulics roll the bowl over to dump. Has hyd. For the apron? To keep dirt from spilling ? Plenty of these were pulled by MF35 or Ford 800 sized tractors.
Just saying, NOMBusiness; hate to see a fellow do extra work for nothing......
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7 years 10 months ago #157041
by Skinner
I agree with CR most of those little scrapers use the three point lift to raise and lower the cutting edge! Using the one remote circuit to dump the bowl
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7 years 10 months ago #157043
by case on a cat
I think I would hook that thing to a wheel tractor and understand how it operates before I start cutting and modifying.
Most of the Overland and Eversman scrapers used the two lower links of the three point hitch to raise and lower the blade as well as pull it. The hydraulic cylinder operated the dump mechanism.
At least this is how the little scrapers like that I have operated or the neighbors had.
I'm starting to think the same thing. The odd thing about the current hitch is it's size. It's the right spacing for the lift arms on a category 1 3pt hitch, the pins are cat 2 size. I'm at TSC picking up cat 1 pins and some hydro fittings. I have a ford jubilee with a hydro setup too.
I am starting to see the problem with the stationary drawbar and not being able to dump correctly. I'm thinking I could add another diverter valve to the back of the D2 and setup a cylinder to raise and lower the scraper near the hitch. I understand it could be pretty involved, but I'd still like to make it work for the D2.
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