Today I got to play with the D2.
Found fuel tank almost full. $50.00
Found shut off below tank to be closed. opened it and let things set.
no leaks to transfer pump.
opened bleeder at top of fuel filter a bit later fuel comes out.
Opened bleeder for lower section of fuel filter, front bleeder.
After a few minutes Fuel.
Now the bleeder at the injection pumps.
After a few more minutes more fuel.
Ok that side taken care of.
Check fluids, all ok at this point. Will be changed shortly.

Now put electric starter together that came with crawler.
Clearanced nose cone on starter drive.
figured out where to clock starter. pulled it all back out.
bolted starter to block. hooked up a battery.
clunk clunk
pulled it back out and ran on ground ok.
Put back in.
Clunk Clunk
Pull it back out. turns free.
pull nose cone. check starter gear against remains of old starter gear.
It is smaller and has 12 teeth. so according to OM page.
Should be ok.
Put starter back together.
check battery 8D voltage 12.2
put battery on charge
end of day
Darn, so close yet so far.

Cheers
Dudley

Hi Dcurrin,
Is the starter drive engaging flywheel??? Can't tell what clunk, clunk means.
Was the hole already there for factory start or was it drilled by PO?
Best way to do trial fit is to pull the solenoid housing off so you can work the plunger by hand.

The most significant visible difference on the late angle blade is the method of clamping the blade tilt feature. Style changed for both D2 and D4.

OM,
Thanks for the idea about checking the engagement.
Clunk clunk= apply voltage to solenoid and it would engage the pinion to the flywheel but not far enough to make the circuit to spin the starter motor.
Hole in bell housing was there appears to be factory done. PO took the blank cover off.

Kind of like it was trying to do its job but could not get the gears to mesh.
I rolled the engine via the water pump a couple of times trying to make sure no bad teeth were hanging up things.

Blade sn 7G192(6 or uses two bolts in vertical slots to adjust the left right angle. Does not look like the image you attached.


Cheers
Dudley

Does Cat or anybody have Sales Tech Info.

What I am looking for it the gradeability, weights, etc....
I missed the one on ebay recently.

Thanks
Dudley

Was the old starter you mention an original inertia drive type??
Seems like an unusually tight fit.
The 11 tooth helical drive has become available again but there is very little difference in dimensions.

OM,
Starter is brand new 40MT Delco copy
PO bought the correct nose cone and pinion gear.
(Any great change in the 11 versus the 12. other than duh one tooth. Starter motor would have a slightly better advantage against the diesel motor.)
I know the solenoid is 12v I hope the starter motor is also.

I had to put it together and install.

Battery is now fully charged.

After lunch I will reinstall starter and check engagement per your suggestion.

Hopefully all will be well and I can see if I have a running crawler.

Thanks for the help.
Dudley

Slight difference on the starter pinion diameters.
The 12 T is 2.310 in.
The 11 T is 2.283 in.

The 0.027 in. difference might count on a tight fit situation.

Gentlemen,

She is alive..

Sounds ok no knocking. Or other unusual noises.

A minor amount of smoke, oil pressure 25 with suspect guage, Hydraulics function was able to move cylinders to get them on there mounts. (must Replace at least one hose before I try pressure.)
main clutch adjustment too tight.

OM, et al,
I think I installed the starter about 8 times today maybe more...
Starter problem is gear too big. I ground and ground and ground some more.
Now it fits with shim on the out board side. Cocks the starter slightly away from flywheel.. In other words more grinding needed. but now I have marks on it to see where at least.. Sound like it is running too deep. Is there a 10 tooth out there????
IF I could try an 11 without having to just buy it and hope it works. $$ I would have one on order. My real intention is to reinstall the Pony Motor and use it as the primary means of starting.

Cheers
Dudley

Congratulation:D
Although that starter installation doesn't sound good.
What was the diameter of the old starter pinion you mentioned.
Sounds to me like the hole was not located right. They did not normally have the bell housings factory bored for that early a tractor.......although the bell housing could have been changed.

You might be able to recover by offset grinding the starter bore hole. (I like to start out with 3-3/4 in.) and drill the starter nose mounting holes out another 1/32 in. to 3/4 in. diameter, then you would have 1/16 in. of adjustment based on the 3-3/4 in. hole.

OM,
The clunk clunk was starter pinion hitting ring gear...
Thanks for the tip on manual engagement of the pinion.

In regards to old gear. That was the original off the pony motor starter clutch shaft. In hindsight I was comparing apples and banannas. Diameter would be a function of number of teeth and profile. So a twelve should be smaller anyways than the 13 from the pony clutch.

I know for sure that I ground off more than .015" per tooth.
It does start but does not sound right. I will return to this problem later.
Seems to spin over pretty darn quick.

Need some hoses for the hyd sys. MAJOR safety issues with old hoses.
No leaks but definate MayPops...


Next task.
Hoses.
Full lube point check.
Adjust main clutch, steering clutches and brake bands.
An operations and maintenance manual is a must. I would have missed a bunch of things....

Cheers
Dudley