OM

I have the original style with T handles. Is that a bad thing? Do you know the filter #


The anti cavitation additive is important for diesels especially ones with liners so the water jackets don't get hot spots due to air pockets. I just need the coolant system capacity so I can figure out how much to use.

Eddie

it says something went wrong with your link and I don't have permission to view it.

Thanks again

Jamie

The cooling system is 15 gallons.
Anti-cavitation and corrosion inhibitors are built in to the HD anti-freeze.
The only time additives would be needed is if your running straight water and then soluble oil and anti-cavitation would be required.
Oil filter is a Wicks #51165 (2-req'd)
Fuel filters are Wicks #33825 (4-req'd)
There are pro's and con's for either type oil filter but most get converted to full flow.

You have to be signed up on the ACME site to get access (I'm not)

The tee handle should indicate the bypass type and you should find a washable brass screen and the 51165 filter cartridge inside. Sometimes these things show up having been hacked up to use the 51161 style filter and nothing works right.

The fuel filter retainers might be very delicate. Don't know if the ones that old came with the same square plastic rods up through the filters and held to the filter plate by tiny pins and springs, but those are very easy to break getting the little pins out of each rod. And don't drop the rod........ Maybe yours predates the plastic/phenolic material introduced a few years later.

"edb" wrote:

Hi Team,
a topic that was discussed on ACME recently and some thoughts I had on the subject.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

www.antiquecaterpillar.info/index.php?/t...ing-oil-into-clutch/

i Team,
been trying to find an analogy or something to get this viscosity thing into a form we can readily relate to.
My understanding of multi grade oil is that, say 15-40 oil, would be the same as 15 wt. oil when cold and then would be the same viscosity as 30 wt. oil when hot--this 30 wt. would not necessarily be still at 30 wt. but a lesser viscosity as it will thin out.
Oil scroll seals are designed to work with an oil of a given viscosity and would struggle to wind back in a thinner oil.

Back in my Motor Mechanics Apprenticeship year 3 training we were given this data for automotive engines on the oil "throw off" from bearings with different clearance dimensions.

0.0015" = normal designed throw off to splash the lube cams, followers, pistons, rings etc.
0.003" = increased 5 times.
0.006" = increased 25 times.

From this I can see thin oil would have a similar effect of increasing the throw off, in this case out the rear main and into the oil scroll which would be flooded beyond design limits.
The same would apply to your D7D with the blue smoke and occasional popping in the exhaust. The oil rings would be flooded beyond design limits and this would be exacerbated by any bearings running with larger clearances.

Just some ramblings of an old mechanic.
Keep having fun.
Cheers,
Eddie b

So with my limited understanding what I take away from this is run straight 30 weight and just let it warm up longer when it's cold.

Next question how many hours between oil changes? My machine will be used a couple times a month maybe 10-15 hours per month likely so it could be awhile before any serious hours build on it.

Thanks

Jamie

These are the original oil specs.
Engine oil change interval for MIL-L-2104A spec is 240 hrs with filter change being the same interval.

With low hour usage probably should be changed at least once per year. Sooner if condensation is a problem.

I use st 30w oil--change it once a year in the springtime after the cold winter