But on the grader the engine sits in the frame backwards, so pony drain is on left side of the machine and pony clutch and pinion is on right side of machine.

like OM says, the ATF in the pony clutch makes it a lot easier to brake the pinion (hold pinion clutch lever hard to rear of grader), so it doesn't grind when you shift it into engagement with the flywheel ring gear.

Note.....that pinion clutch compartment provides lubricant for the whole pony cam shaft, mag and pinion drive gear train, so it must be kept filled. Some of them leak out over time and will be low if the machine has been sitting a while.

Ok so you would recommend ATF? I'm still unsure of what level to fill it to looks like the drain is at the rear down low. And a level check plug looks like it is on the side as well as a large fill plug on top.

Level and fill is on the 5B3950 cover.
Plug 2B7411 is for clutch adjustment but can also fill there.
Plug on the side is for access to taper pin.
The Cat recommendation is for 30wt engine oil which is the preferred lubrication. ATF is ok alternative for a dragging clutch but is not the recommended lubrication.
Drain is the plug on the bottom bellow the clutch housing, actually on the main flywheel housing.

I don't mind using ATF in mine. Like that better than grinding the pinion in every time.

It also helps a lot to have the pony at a slow idle.

I think the brake part of the assembly is worn out on most of them and there is no adjustment that I am aware of.

There is also a modification to the pinion clutch disks that puts a slight cup in every other one so when the clutch lever is snapped to the disengage position, the stack of disks opens up and breaks the oil "stick-tion" that is usually what is causing the problem or at least making it worse. The member who came up with that posted a series of pictures here showing how to do it.

Got the clutch oil changed good thing too wasn't a lot in there 1/2 cup maybe

Got pony motor oil changed too.


How much oil does the diesel hold and do I need to run Rotella. Or Dello? Or is any quality oil ok?
Where is the filter and is it a cat only part or can I get a Wix or something like it at Napa?
Also how much anti cavitation additive should I add to radiator? Should I also get a water pump lubricant?

Thanks again for all the help!

"THE wrote:

Got It running
After leaving long runner to breather off I could see it backfiring
Someone had put new plugs in it before I bought it. They must have got the leads wrong.
I Switched plug leads shazaam instantly fired up

Where is the oil drain for the pony motor?

Thank you all for your time and effort!

I need to buy a manual I see them on eBay but would rather get it from someone here.

Hey, Great to hear you got it running. They say it takes three times doing something to really sink in, so after having your carb apart so many times you are the resident expert on pony carbs. You are now well versed to be able to help everyone else out.

Is the oil filter the original by-pass type or has it been converted to full flow?
Crankcase holds 23 quarts.
Original spec is straight SAE 30 wt.
Early models can add two clutch plates (from 7 to 9) to the pony clutch brake section if clutch braking is lacking.
Although cupping the bronze clutch plates sounds trick they are designed as flat friction clutch discs and do not respond well to flexing.
I do not recommend that procedure.
You should just run the proper anti-freeze solution in the cooling system.

Pony clutch/brake info courtesy edb...

Old Iron thanks

I might have picked up a little by shear repetition but I am far from an expert. But would happily share what little I know.

OM

How can I tell which filter type I have?

I see what looks like a breather over the oil fill and what I assume are two fuel filters on the same side.

Is it ok to use 10-30 or does it need to be straight 30 weight

Also what is the capacity of the injection pump? And does that use 30 weight as well again is 10-30 ok

The leak on the housing below does that mean I have a wet clutch if so where do I check it and what fluid does it use?

Again I would like to find an operators manual from someone on this board instead of eBay and cut down on questions I could answer myself by reading.

Thank you all again very much!

Jamie

The twin cans are your oil filters. If it has a hex nut with a slot in it on top it has the full flow conversion. If they are T-handles they are the original by-pass type. The filter cartridges are different for the two types.
On here every ones a lubrication engineer. Use what ever you want but straight wt 30 is original spec. and that's what I use.
Engine oil is used in the injection pump. Fill to the brim at the big hex plug.
Your unit is dry clutch.
Transmission oil is SAE 90

Hi Team,
a topic that was discussed on ACME recently and some thoughts I had on the subject.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

www.antiquecaterpillar.info/index.php?/t...ing-oil-into-clutch/