thats a good one neil!
i have my garden tractor with b&s 1 cil engine and it happens 2 times i had it out and relatives used it, the intake valve was stuck in place , i think its because its set to off mode just after fullpower, but i dont know yet, had to take off the head now 2 times and spray some wd 40 in the valve and hit with a hammer to get it loose ,
letting your engine cool down a bit before stopping is a good thing!! ( anyone who has an idea how this can happen or any other cuases of a stuck inlet valve please advice!)

the valve can warp if the engine is shut off hot and the valve isn't seated in the closed position. any small single cylinder engine, and all odd fire 2 cylinder engines when shut off should be rolled over so that the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. if you do this, the valves are seated in te head and cool down at the same rate as the block, cylinder and head preventing warpage. the two cylinder odd fire engines should be rolled over so that the first cylinder just kicks over tdc on the compression stroke, the first cylinder would be on the downward compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valves closed, while the second cylinder would be coming up on the compression stroke, both valves intake and exhaust closed.

this applies to all valved single cylinder engines, and some two cylinder engines off the top of my head that i can think of.

vertical odd fire ponies such as the ones on rd6's. d7's, d8's etc.
all old JD 2 cylinder tractors,
some v twin engines, like in some of the import road bikes (never exposed to harley's but i'm sure someone can verify that they are and odd fire or even fire design)
lots of littel twin cylinder honda, onan and Briggs and scrap-iron designs that use a v-twin design.

Thank for all the impute every one this is all good info I will have more photos this week. Still waiting on the machine shop and gaskets to show up.

Here is a photo of re surfacing the valve seats with a carbide cutting tool it worked quite well. All my gaskets and seals arrived today. I have been working on cleaning all the parts to get ready for reassembly. My crank will be ready to pick up next week and new rings should also arrive next week....more to come

well after a few weeks of waiting for the right rings to show up, the machine shop to grind the crank and rods I can start putting every thing back together. Any one know of torque specs references for the d2 pony motor ?? I am mostly concerned about the rod cap nuts. One guy told me 50 ft lbs and some one else says no more than 28. I will post more pix this week of the progress...

"Jw74" wrote:

well after a few weeks of waiting for the right rings to show up, the machine shop to grind the crank and rods I can start putting every thing back together. Any one know of torque specs references for the d2 pony motor ?? I am mostly concerned about the rod cap nuts. One guy told me 50 ft lbs and some one else says no more than 28. I will post more pix this week of the progress...

Hi Jw74, the bigend caps are 14 foot pounds, the head nuts are 35 foot pounds, the large flywheel nut is 150-165 foot pounds. That's a neat valve seat cutter you have there, where did you get it from, and what end gap were you aiming for on your new piston rings?
regards
Mike

Looks like a neway valve seat cutter, I have one that we have had for quite a while for recutting the Wisconsin V4 boat-anchor engines.
www.goodson.com/S_KA-462-Neway_Jobber_Cutter_Kit/

JW, the only thing I can add to Mike's torque specs is that after clicking the rod caps to 14 ft.lbs. it's still ok to advance the nut to the nearest available castle nut slot if the cotter pin bore is obstructed at the initial torque point. Just don't back the nuts off to open the cotter pin bores up.

Thanks guys the rebuild project slowed way down due to lack of time over the past few months I have been chipping away on blasting and painting all the parts and slowly getting things ready to put back together. My new ring end gaps were right around .022. I ended up replacing the cam, as you can see the old one was not looking to good. I ended up taking the valves and block to a shop to have done professionally. when I was checking them to see if they were seating properly they just did not seal well. I am glad I did It was money well spent, around 175.00. He did them up right for me and now I wont be second guessing myself. I do not have a press so for installing the main bearings and seals I carefully tapped them in place with a hammer and a block of wood. After the bearings were installed and I was happy with there location I drilled the holes for the dowels that keep them in place. Be sure to use the proper size drill bit so they end up fitting snug I even placed a drop of lock tight on them for some extra holding power. In one of these photos you can see I am holding the retainer clip for the valve guide bushing. To remove and install the valve assembly all you have to do is place a screw driver in the intake or exhaust port and pry the bushing back towards the spring and that relieves the tension enough to pull out the retainer. The valve and spring and bushing will then slide right out then the lifter can slide right out as well. Its funny I saw this explained in the book and went over it several times but never made sense to me until I was putting everything back together. Things are going back together well I am taking my time double checking everything trying not to make mistakes. For assembly I am using cam lube on bearings and most other parts. Any impute would be great. I will continue to post the rest of the rebuild thanks for looking