This hole was stripped out so I drilled it out and taped it to receive this thread insert. With some lock tight it should stay put. Now I can use the original size bolt... more to come....

Like edb says, Carb photo's are hard to do!
Keep up the Great work!
Please keep posting photo's!

Jw74;122810 wrote:

Thanks for all the positive feed back every one!! And for all the info as well. I didn't do much to day but finished up the bowl. The one thing that is nice about the screw and tap method of re plugging the passage ways is the next time it needs a good cleaning some one will just have to back out the screws clean things out and back in. A couple of screws needed to be cut shorter...for that I just used my electrical pliers. they have a spot specifically for cutting 10/32 screws. After the screw gets cut you then unscrew it from the tool and it straightens out the threads. I threw in a pix of the D2 that this motor came out of. She's in real good shape from what I can tell. It has about 3200 hrs on the meter. Thanks for watching...more to

I think the hydraulic lines are for the winches control and the winch still runs off the PTO. Clutch will have to be engaged to pull the cable in. Winch should free spool and hold without PTO engaged. We used the older Gearmatic Model 9 with a skidding arch like yours on our old D2 Cat back in the sixty's and never broke any thing. Believe me we stood that old D2 on end many times dragging a big jag of wood up a steep hill. Nice feature about that winch is when skidding you can just drop the load and move thru the bad spot and then winch up again with out having to stop. A good solid mount so the winch pulls on all the bolts is the right ticket.

Well today was a busy day in the shop. I have a good friend that is a high school engines teacher and has been helping me with the more technical measurements. Such as bore taper, bore diameter and ring end gaps. If this is an area of the rebuild your not to confident with or don't know some one who is, most machine or engine shops will perform all of that work as well. I dropped off the crank shaft and piston rods at the machine shop as well. Where the front main seal rides was grooved pretty good so he is going to weld a couple beads around that spot and turn it on the lathe to smooth it back out and one of the rods needed a little grind as well. All together the bill on machine work will be 150.00. All of the measurements where within caterpillar tolerances so no boring of cylinders was needed. I honed the cylinders with an abrasive ball brush and plenty of oil to remove any glazing on the cylinder walls. I will order some new standard sized rings and we should be good to go. The pistons needed a little light sanding with very fine sand paper to work out some of the scratches. I scraped for a long wile to remove all of the carbon build up from the exhaust valve ports and heads and any where else I could find. All of the valve parts were cleaned well with an electric wire wheel. The valves and valve seats had some grooves and pits in them. I was able to use the shops resurfacing machine to clean them up. Next week I will regrind the seats. My bearing arrived in the mail yesterday, I am still waiting on all the gaskets and seals to show up. All of this work we did today took us about 4 hrs. Here are some pix from todays work, thanks for tuning in. More to come.....

nice pictures of your good job!! and a special valve grinding tool! will you use valve grinding paste later to let the valve seat in the stem?? or is this not neccecery?

thanks! Yes we will use the abrasive past to do the final fit with the valves and make sure they are seated well and at the right angle. We started with one of them and was looking good but ran out of time. I will try and snap some shots of that process. Wont be till next Thursday that I can work on it again

tonight I worked on cleaning up parts and gasket surfaces this magneto has been rebuilt it cost me about 220.00 and the starter as well has been rebuilt and the cost of that was 100.00. As you can see from the pix all I used to clean up the gasket surfaces is an old chisel a razor blare and a sanding sponge. I hade to hit a few spots with a file.

Very good info on the idle jet. Many times overlooked by mechanics. And why does that passage way get clogged up??? So many operators start a starting engine with the throttle wide open and NEVER ,never idle the engine down to low idle so that gas flows through this passage way. Thus, it gets pluged up and when they try to idle the engine, it won't idle. I used to ask guys if they ran their pickup like that, always with the engine wide open!!! They may have thought I was a smart "A", but perhaps I got my message across. Bill Walter