Hey Old Magnet, sorry that you feel that way.It was not my intention to hurt your feelings. I'm just on this site to exchange ideas with other people who love old cats. I'm not trying to cobble up a fix...I'm merely going to try to do what you said would work. A few days ago you said, "I have a "P" housing here and tried out a fit with a 40mt 12 hole deh. Appears bolting wise it will work with indexing comeing out the same as the correct parts." If using the 40mt 12 hole DEH ends up not working, I have time to send the starter back. Again, I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings...come on, life is too short, don't go. I'm going to need your expertise again before this conversion is done.
Neil, you know 2 bolts would probably hold that starter on...but I don't think I would want to take a chance.
old-iron-habit, this starter is about 60 lbs...I think you're right that if all the bolts are not used then bailing wire and wood will not hold it.
ccjersey, I thought about pointing the solenoid downward. I read on here that it can be done. I have not tried it but just from eye balling the area it looks like it would be very close. Plus like you mention there is the question of moisture. Also wire access might be a problem.

Johnstone

b4d2 -- no problem, this is what the site is for. there is a lot of people that just read and learn and never post. that is why i try with pictures and common info help these people out. helping out keeps these old cats up and running.

will try and find info on which nose cone and helix i had bought.

old magnet and johnstone -- i live at the end of the world and freight for me almost $2.00 a pound sometime more on the lighter smaller item. i try and use parts numbers and tell the partman the numbers and what i want not what he thinks might fit. i deal with a big store 1200kms in the south and i wait 12 days for a bendix air valve( most common company around making air valves) for my semi to arrive. i gave the partmans my bendix numbers and after the long wait i got a chinese made air valve which has it's own part number. i chased the part number on the internet and came up with 3 different air valves that have the same chinese part number but none even look like the bendix air valve i needed. i refuse to put the chinese valve on my semi because it came with loose bolts. so if there are loose bolts on the outside what is loose or missing on the inside. the cost to return the valve is more then what the valve is worth. so now i have a new chinese valve on display in the Kingdom.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

Got the 12 hole DEH yesterday. I mounted it on the starter and the fit looks good. The bolt clears the solenoid base with just a little grinding and looks like it will need more grinding to get the wrench around the 12 point head. Might even consider modifying a wrench to limit the amount of grinding to the solenoid....would not want to break through the solenoid wall.
While I had the DEH on the starter, I taped a piece of cardboard to it that shows a rough outline of the solenoid's position in relation to the DEH. Took the DEH off the starter and mounted it to the tractor housing and as you can see in the picture, the solenoid clears the pony clutch case.
My tractor is located about 200 yds from the house and is living outdoors. Next nice day I plan on lugging that heavy starter out to the tractor and see what an actual mount of the starter to the tractor looks like.
Hey KoO, I saw last night on the weather that the frigid air that hangs around your house is coming down to visit here where I live. Man, how do you function with it being so cold? It's only January and I've had enough of the cold weather already. One good thing is the days are getting longer and the sun climbs a little higher in the sky every day........Spring is right around the corner.

Why not use a socket head cap screw instead of the 12 point?

www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=l3c2ik

just a thought----

Hi Phil,

I saw your post and thought...wow that's a great idea...anything to avoid all that grinding. I went out and looked at the starter. That picture is a little deceiving. That raised boss and the end of the pivot pin in the solenoid prevent you from putting an alan wrench straight in the socket. Maybe a litttle modification to an alan wrench might make it work. Thanks for your thought.

Johnstone

most manufactures of allen wrenches offer a style of allen wrench that has a ball on the end for using them at an angle. Snap on, mac, westward, proto all make good quality ones that come in 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet drive sockets, they are an economical purchase to make.

The ball end socket can be real help. Also you can cut a short piece of an allen wrench off, put it in the socket and use a universal joint on a 3/8" or 1/2" socket.

The ball end socket will probably give you enough clearance.

Good luck---

Is there any opportunity to turn the pin in the solenoid end for end. In the picture it looks like the flat head end might give you more room.



Edit: maybe a small cold rolled pin drilled in through the casting on the head end into that pin to hold it in and grind the keeper end off flush. Just ideas to look at.

Thanks for all the ideas. It's amazing how people look at things from their own perspective and come up with different solutions. It's too bad that I do not have any of these socket head cap screws to try out your ideas.I just got the 12 point screws from Mcmaster-Carr and I had to buy 5 when I only needed one.
rmyram, I looked up those allen wrenches with the ball on the end...cannot wrap my brain around what that ball on the end does.
phildirt, I'm not familiar with a ball end socket? I also had thought about cutting off a small piece of an allen and use a universal joint on a ratchet, but it still looks tight.
old-iron-habit, That pin is flush on the other side, but it does not seem to float in there..... might be pressed in from the other side. If I get that solenoid out again I'll have to check it out.
I have a few months to sort these things out since I won't be doing this conversion until Spring.Keep those ideas coming.

Johnstone

I've been watching this thread with anticipation of doing my own 9u direct electric conversion. Great info here. I have started to accumulate some of these same parts as well.

My bell housing has a crack that needs repaired. Is it cast iron, cast steel, or what? What welding process would you use? It has been repaired while still in the machine, and now that it is disassembled, I would like to get it welded a little better. I have a hobart 187 mig welder or an old lincoln buzz box. Thanks.