Guess you want to fight this one all the way.....mounting bolts are 5/8-11 x 1-3/4.
As I stated earlier you need the 12-pt version to fit the top location and this bolt needs to be put in place when you assemble the DEH. There is no room to add a nut to a stud at this location, nor can the bolt be added later, not alone being able to turn it. That is why the wrench notching is required. Can use studs at lower holes.

You would have been ahead of the game getting the Delco Remy unit from the distributor and knowing what you got instead of playing with the Chinese junk, especially when your unfamiliar with what your dealing with.

There have been many D4's and D6's converted with the provided instructions and I don't recall anyone having this much trouble.

here we go with the d6 9u known as the Bismark which old magnet helped me with the starter. 12 points bolts on the bottom and a stud and nut on the top with a little die grinding to make some room.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?14587-D6...6-after-8-long-years

thansk
KoO
Published Author

That's on a 40MT starter, they have a little more room.....as in very little more.

here is the website where i get my starters from. they are only 1200kms south of me, lol.

ws1.wilsonautoelectric.com/ec03/part.php?part=91-01-3701

i get the auto parts store 300kms away to order the starter in from the south then i drive down and pick it up to save on freight charges. the starter is about $378.00 cdn money.

i had the helix bendix and nose cone in stock from 2006 when i bought a bunch on ebay but i can't remember the numbers right now.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

Come on Old Magnet, when I bought this 42mt starter I had no idea that I would end up with a "P" housing instead of a "S" housing....I thought all these starters were the same behind the DEH. The important thing is that I was able to come on this site and with your expertise on starters we determined what the problem was and now I can work towards a solution. When I think of the whole project of converting this tractor to direct electric start, with all that is involved, if this is the only trouble I have, I'll be happy.
ccjersey, yeah, I'll have studs and 6 and 12 point bolts just in case to cover all possibilities. I'm going to start out with all studs in the clutch housing just to see how the starter slides in place. Once I see that the starter has all the right clearances, I'll do whatever I have to to secure it.
KoO, thanks for the picture of the starter installation on the Bismark. I also enjoyed reading the thread you posted on the work you were doing in the rainy season. I have always enjoyed reading all your post as you have a down to earth way of explaining things in a way that is easy to understand.....Of course the pictures are great too.

Johnstone

Must be my problem...I just don't understand why anyone would accept wrong parts from a questionable supplier then buy more parts to cobble up a fix. The part number you ordered by was correct but that's not what you got. OK, I'm done, good luck with your conversion.

Back when i first got my drivers license I scored big and bought a 1955 Buick Special with a 255 V8 and a 3 on the tree for $40.00. It had the two bolt starter going up from the bottom. My bendix was grinding and upon looking it had one of the starter bolts broke off in the block. Being young, broke, and dumb, I tightened the remaining bolt and wedged a block of wood between the other end of the starter and the engine block to hold the side torque as the pinion wanted to climb out if the ring gear teeth. I baler wired the end of the starter good to hold the block in. The weeks later I walked home 6 miles on a sloppy muddy road in the cold rain after killing the engine on a muddy road corner and having the starter not work any longer. I did learn how to pull a transmission and change a ring gear though. Also learned what an easy out was.

If a bolt is left off there probably should be a GOOD way used to hold the starter in.

The smaller frame starters on JD tractors with the 404 and 466 engines have such a tight fit for one of the bolts in behind the lever housing and solenoid that there is a special wrench that you can purchase to take the nut off the stud that they use there. Quite a few starters around here don't have that nut! Seem to do just fine.

If I had bored a clutch housing and had ground it to fit etc, I believe I would want to make sure all 3 corners were secure. In a factory setup, I think it would be fine without one bolt but I would hate that it was the top one in a triangle arrangement.

Any chance to put the lever housing on so the solenoid points downward? Might want to drill a drain in it to ensure no oil or condensation got into the solenoid.

Non-existant user wrote:

here is the website where i get my starters from. they are only 1200kms south of me, lol.

ws1.wilsonautoelectric.com/ec03/part.php?part=91-01-3701

i get the auto parts store 300kms away to order the starter in from the south then i drive down and pick it up to save on freight charges. the starter is about $378.00 cdn money.

i had the helix bendix and nose cone in stock from 2006 when i bought a bunch on ebay but i can't remember the numbers right now.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

Joey, I hope you don't mind but I added your contact to the thread for pony to electric start.