When I run the D8 engine it slobbers oil out the exhaust pipe and speckles everything with oil expecially when I speed the engine up. The engine starts easy and seems to run good. I would try to put a load on it and get it hot to help seat the rings but it is a pusher tractor and all I have is a drawbar and nothing really to pull. Is it possible I have some stuck piston rings? Do you think a additive like sea foam in the engine oil would help? Any other remedies that might work?
I resealed the pushrod tubes, big job but turned out ok. Thanks for any advice. Tom

You could try the old Bon Ami application........but I think this unit is going to have to do some serious work to settle down.
Yes, could be ring problems or just plain wore out;)

I ran the D8 around this afternoon and tried to get it up to operating temprature with the help of some cardboard in front of the radiator. It smokes some and at certain rpm's it has a little bit of a miss. I cracked all of the fuel lines while it was running and it seems to be hitting on all cylinders, except when I crack number three it seems to clear up the smoke. Could I maybe have a bad injector on number three? I think I'm going to pull them out and have them tested. It looks like they have a big nut that you can't get any kind of wrench on to loosen. They all have a chisel mark on them, I bet that's how the nut was loosened before. Once the nut is loosened is it common for the injectors to be stuck or do they usually come out ok? I forgot to mention that I opened the oil filler cap while it was running and there doesn't seem to be much blow by, so thats why I'm hoping it might be a injector problem instead of stuck, not seated, or broken rings.
Tom

It's going to take more than just operating temperature to stop that slobber. Needs serious work/load on engine. Takes a special socket wrench with cut-out side to straddle the fuel line. Chisel was common substitute. Normally the injector comes out pretty easy once the nut is loosened. Good idea to have the injectors checked.

It finally stopped raining here for a couple of hours here in Texas for me to remove my injectors. Had to make a special socket, I don't think I would have broke the nuts loose with a chisel they were really tight. I'm going to take them in and have them cleaned and tested. Number one cylinder had some oil on the bottom of the injector and pre-combustion chamber so that might be my cylinder with stuck or broken rings.

Socket wrench looks good:D Glad to see you are not carrying on the chisel tradition:) I have made several of those with pipe extensions. Good use for those Chinese sockets.....here is the breakdown on the injector you are dealing with.

Does anybody have the tools to disassemble the injectors for a D13000? My fuel injection guy lost his two tools for disassembling them. He said they look like a nut with splines in the inside. The top spline is approx. 1.060 and the bottom spline of the injector is approx. 1.575. If anybody has these tools it might have the part number stampped on them that is what I need. There is a good chance they will be discontinued though.
Three of the injectors tested good, and two dripped slightly, and one was real bad and it was the one that was in number one hole. He said that he's done a lot of them when he first got in the business but hasn't seen any in a long time. He said there's a part that you lap when you recondition them and that stops them from dripping. If anybody has the part number I sure would appreciate it. Tom

I have no idea who has these tools and I'm sure they are obsolete.
From the service tool pic I suspect it is one of the two retainer nut sockets. Maybe edb can help out here. He is the fuel injection expert:)
The part that can be lapped is the "flat seat" part of the valve service group called out as "nozzle end". I don't have a part number for just the seat.
Seems like your closing in on at least one of the slobber sources:D

Hi Team,
thanks OM for posting the tooling list, can't locate mine at present, is a bit hazy but if I read it right the bare minimum tools are :- 6B1641 socket (for nozzle retainer nut rem/rep), 7B2591 tee wrench (for adjusting end cap R/R)
To make break off pressure adj. easier the 7B2601 wrench Ass would help but I shudder to think what it would cost if at all available.
TomP-TX at least you have found someone who has got experience of these units. Also the "Flat Seat" refers to the end orifice plate. The needle valve end face is not flat but has a concave curvature equal to that of a ball of 5" diameter, also the curvature of the sealing faces on the main body to nozzle body have the equal 5" dia curvature-- concave and convex--respectively. I do not have the Part No for the set of laps--concave /convex-- we may have inherited these from the Ruwolt D7 WW2 project. I am very sure this tooling is no longer available through the Cat system, so good luck, your Fuel Shop needs to do lots of looking.
I have scanned the VOP and needle lift specs. and method.
The needle lift is very importaint as too little over loads the lifter and cam faces and too much gives black smoke and poor running at High Idle speeds, but maybe a thou. or two extra lift would not hurt definately do not go under 0.007" lift.
I hope you can follow this, but I'm sure the Fuel Shop will be greatful for the specs etc. Shouldn't say this but I have often had to reclaim the splines from attacks by vise grips etc. on units I have O/H'd.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks for the info guys. I printed everything off and will take it to the fuel system shop Monday. I still have a couple of searches for the tooling, hopefully something will come through. Tom P.