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D8 Push Rod Tubes

D8 Push Rod Tubes

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TomP-TX
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I've been working on my D8 13A, hope to get it all done and painted for a Labor Day show. Welded up the draw bar pin location, it was so worn that the bottom hole almosted busted through and somebody had welded a strap of steel to reinforce it. Installed the missing hand crank for the pony and just installed my new gauges.
I need to adjust the valves and thought I would also reseal the push rod tubes. I haven't found much in my manual about how to disassemble. Can you remove the tubes after you remove the push rods and the clamp at the base? It looks like the parts book calls for a packing type seal at the bottom and I'm not sure what it takes at the top, there is a sleeve and a direcetor not sure which one I would need? Any help appreciated. Tom
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Tue, May 22, 2007 9:52 AM
edb
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Hi TomP-TX,
the attach. should get you there.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, May 22, 2007 10:10 AM
SJ
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Reply to edb:
Hi TomP-TX,
the attach. should get you there.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
The top uses a cork seal & is shaped to fit in the cup type area & has a taper on one side & flat on the other.
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Tue, May 22, 2007 8:26 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to SJ:
The top uses a cork seal & is shaped to fit in the cup type area & has a taper on one side & flat on the other.
Looking gooood.......did you have those draw bar pins made??
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Tue, May 22, 2007 9:41 PM
TomP-TX
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Looking gooood.......did you have those draw bar pins made??
I bought the pin through Cat, they offered a replacement through classic parts and it was $44. I'm not much of a welder, I can stick weld some but I had the guys at work show me how to run the wire feed and I just kept welding it up in my spare time about a 1 1/2" of weld.
Adjusted the main clutch and brake clutch, it is all working good now. A few more repairs and I'll be ready for paint and new Hahn cushions.
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Wed, May 23, 2007 2:49 AM
TomP-TX
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Reply to TomP-TX:
I bought the pin through Cat, they offered a replacement through classic parts and it was $44. I'm not much of a welder, I can stick weld some but I had the guys at work show me how to run the wire feed and I just kept welding it up in my spare time about a 1 1/2" of weld.
Adjusted the main clutch and brake clutch, it is all working good now. A few more repairs and I'll be ready for paint and new Hahn cushions.
I have my parts to reseal the push rod tubes. It looks like it takes the same cork packing at the top as it does the bottom, the quantity required was 24.

Do I need to install the cork packing dry? or do I need to soak them in oil? or should I put sealant on them?
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Fri, Jun 1, 2007 3:35 AM
D.D. KELLEY
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Reply to TomP-TX:
I have my parts to reseal the push rod tubes. It looks like it takes the same cork packing at the top as it does the bottom, the quantity required was 24.

Do I need to install the cork packing dry? or do I need to soak them in oil? or should I put sealant on them?
Sorry I Cant Answer Your Question But I Was Wondering Which Show You Were Going To On Labor Day I Wouldnt Mind Seeing Your Tractor Close Up.
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Fri, Jun 1, 2007 5:48 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to D.D. KELLEY:
Sorry I Cant Answer Your Question But I Was Wondering Which Show You Were Going To On Labor Day I Wouldnt Mind Seeing Your Tractor Close Up.
Hi TomP,
Looked through all my stuff and can't find anything about seal preparation.
I'd be inclined to soak them in oil before installation as is usually recommended with all cork seals. Sure can't see how it would hurt anything.
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Fri, Jun 1, 2007 7:33 AM
TomP-TX
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi TomP,
Looked through all my stuff and can't find anything about seal preparation.
I'd be inclined to soak them in oil before installation as is usually recommended with all cork seals. Sure can't see how it would hurt anything.
Thanks OM, I have a friend that Rebuilt a D13000 quite a few years ago and he said that he thinks he soaked them in oil.

D.D. The show will be the 22nd annual show at Lindsay, which is 3 miles west of gainesville on Hwy. 82 and then a little north on FM1199. Mostly farm equipment at the show, I took my Ten a couple a years ago and it was the only Cat. I hope to have my little Ten and the D8 next to each other.
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Fri, Jun 1, 2007 9:42 AM
ttman4
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Reply to TomP-TX:
Thanks OM, I have a friend that Rebuilt a D13000 quite a few years ago and he said that he thinks he soaked them in oil.

D.D. The show will be the 22nd annual show at Lindsay, which is 3 miles west of gainesville on Hwy. 82 and then a little north on FM1199. Mostly farm equipment at the show, I took my Ten a couple a years ago and it was the only Cat. I hope to have my little Ten and the D8 next to each other.

Lindsay. Hummm. Small world! & big cities!
I grew up about 30-35 miles from there....at intersection of Hwy 103 & Salmon Rd in Hines City, which was a suburb of Spanish Fort, which was a suburb of Prairie Valley, which was a suburb of Nocona.....😄
~and this too shall pass~
D6 9U6914SP, #46Hyd 1W523, 6A dozer #16C5869
R945B Liebherr Ex. (part owner)
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Fri, Jun 1, 2007 9:21 PM
TomP-TX
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Reply to ttman4:

Lindsay. Hummm. Small world! & big cities!
I grew up about 30-35 miles from there....at intersection of Hwy 103 & Salmon Rd in Hines City, which was a suburb of Spanish Fort, which was a suburb of Prairie Valley, which was a suburb of Nocona.....😄
When I run the D8 engine it slobbers oil out the exhaust pipe and speckles everything with oil expecially when I speed the engine up. The engine starts easy and seems to run good. I would try to put a load on it and get it hot to help seat the rings but it is a pusher tractor and all I have is a drawbar and nothing really to pull. Is it possible I have some stuck piston rings? Do you think a additive like sea foam in the engine oil would help? Any other remedies that might work?
I resealed the pushrod tubes, big job but turned out ok. Thanks for any advice. Tom
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Sat, Jun 16, 2007 9:22 AM
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