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Traxcavator 955 12A – polishing the crank & rod journals
Traxcavator 955 12A – polishing the crank & rod journals
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14 years 7 months ago #44099
by farmall
I love learning new things.Ive rebiult hundreds of motors,int,JD,cat even 955 newer then bills,about ever auto man. out there and never ran acoss this.
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14 years 7 months ago #44100
by Old Magnet
Bill,
What designation aluminum are you using? I can't remember for sure but for years folks have been making their own pony motor (pancake) bearings out of T-6 (I think)
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14 years 7 months ago #44101
by Bill Glenn
I was going to use 6061-T6 aluminum.
My pony motor on the D2 has had my own homemade aluminum bearings in it for 8+ years now. (both rod & mains) It runs 3000 rpms +. It is still working well.
Am I doing something wrong here?!?!
I could use Bronze CDA 932 (SAE 660) if you guys don't think the aluminum is a good idea.
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14 years 7 months ago #44106
by Old Magnet
Yes, that's the designation I was trying to think of.
I can't think of anything to be alarmed about in using it for larger main bearings but going through my mind is the possibility that that alloy might be a little hard for the higher loading use but I would stick to that over bronze.
Problem is "aluminum bearings" is kind of a generic term and it's hard to get info on the actual alloy used by the manufacturers as it's a propriatory thing.
Might have a chat with Mike at Vintage Engine Machine Works in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. He occasionally post on here and bearings for these old engines is his business.
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14 years 7 months ago #44111
by dpendzic
Gosh those deviled eggs looked awesome!!!!
D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY
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14 years 7 months ago #44152
by Bill Glenn
I'm starting to think the aluminum rear main bearing might be the way to go...
I plan to put a shoulded brass dowel pin in the cap & bearing on the lower half and I'll put a small pin in the corner of the top bearing.
I need to put an oil hole in the first groove and another hole in the rear groove so the screw thread on the crank has a place to push the oil and drain.
The rear ID is .005 greater beyond the drain groove where the screw thread on the crank runs.
The joint between the halves IS machined - I didn't get a picture of that step.
Interestingly, my Service manual lists a running clearance for a both "steel bearing" and an "aluminum bearing".
All in favor say "eye"..
Opposed?!?!?!?
This took 2-1/4 hours after work tonight.
Government jobs at work are some of the best thoughtout projects!
Bill
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14 years 7 months ago #44154
by ccjersey
Nice! Nothing like knowing exactly how to do a job, AND having all the tools!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D
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14 years 7 months ago #44155
by SpragueM
That warms my heart. Makes me think I should go fix something. Bill your an inspiration to us all.
Matt
RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F
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14 years 7 months ago #44157
by Dozerman51
Hey Bill,
You can make up some Main bearings for my D2/3J anytime. What nice work. Sure is nice to know what you are doing and have the proper equipment to do the job.
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14 years 7 months ago #44159
by PaulA
After cutting the tubing, did you mill the edges flat?
That's a good trick of tossing it in a 4 jaw and then turning to size, I'll have to remember that.
Is that a LeBlond?
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Traxcavator 955 12A – polishing the crank & rod journals
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