Hi Bill,
Yes, the oil circuits are as you describe and as I was saying. Makes for fairly easy cleaning of the passages in the crankshaft. The part that is a little tougher would be flushing and cleaning the distribution manifold and the passages to the main bearing feeds. These would have to be flushed and blocked in sequence to get them all and you don't have access and sure don't want to have the bearings installed if your flushing debris. About the only way I can see getting it done is removing the distribution manifold and flushing or blowing air through the individual passages.

May not even be necessary in this case as your damage seems to be confined to the two rear journals, you know the pump is clean and anything that went through the pump went through the filter where nothing was found meaning the distribution manifold and it's passages would be clean.

Pre-oiling (before start up)...when everything is clean is a different matter and you could use the air over pipe affair that you already have...I'd also get some engine builders pre-lube (almost a grease) and coat both the journals and shells as you install them.

I believe that any engine that has had a bearing failure should be stripped and cleaned but in this case it seems as if a 'sudden death' failure of the pump drive has caused oil starvation to the back bearings first. But bear this in mind, if the oil pump is not pumping oil, how is any debris from the failure going to be carried around the system? If the pump and filter are clean, the pump has not pushed any failed material round. I would be taking a very close look at the balancer gears, bearings and drive as well, they are notorious for causing problems through vibration.

At the dealer all the 36 years I was there and they were using it before I started for rod and main bearing grease (lubricant) was Lubra- Plate and I,m not sure of the number of it but I have an old small can that has 105 on it but anyway the Lubra- Plate looks about like a snow white lard or a white face cream. We also used it on many other places for a lube.On rod and main bearings I put the Lubra Plate on and then a light coat of motor oil and both worked out very good for a start up procedure.The Co. used to get a big bucket of it and then us mechanics would dip out a small covered can of it to keep and use at our area. Lubra Plate makes different types of grease but for the crank bearings and other areas that you need a good light grease type lube then get the white Lubra Plate.

SJ, you are right on again, Lubriplate, I got a tube at Napa, they call it "motor assembly grease", and it still says #105 on it. I needed white lithium grease when I changed the rod and main bearings in my Cummins. I went to NAPA and asked for white lithium grease, and the kid behind the counter gave me a blank stare. I explained what it was and what it looked like, he said "we have motor assembly grease", he went and got a tube off the shelf, said Lubriplate #105 white lithium grease right on the front of the tube. You gotta love these new kids.

George

"Assembly lube" was the term I was thinking when I said "pre-lube" only the stuff I use is a black (sticky) moly based grease looking product that I bought from the local machine shop that used it on their assembly work.

And I can remember "back in the day" which is a lot longer ago that I want to remember, we used to use STP straight out of the can for assembly lube. anything that was left would get dumped into the engine with the motor oil.You don't hear of anyone use that anymore.

George

This is not the way to go unless you dont have the money,manpower,or resources to pull motor.this is a big NO! NO! Unless you plan on selling.Ive been wrenching for over thirty years and seen these mistakes time and time again after they bring the basket case to me to fix it right.these old track machines are so nice to work on I love it. I just done a D8 trans.Works sweet shifts nicer then most cars.Lots of luck.

Farmall,

I hear what you are saying and you have valid concerns.

The more I get into this I am finding that I do have a lot of things going for me. Right now I have the journals cleaned up & polished nicely. The maximum journal undersize condition is less than 0.002” – in only about two places.

There was a definite problem with the oil pump. It had a sheared brass dowel pin which was the result of trying to be started it was 10 degrees with water / ice in the pump gears.

At this point I am thinking it might run pretty good and hold together with a good flow of oil. We’ll see here before long.

I’ll have all the bearings this week. With the exception of the rear main bearing which is back ordered (from Caterpillar) until August.

I'll make one up this week. I have aluminum material ready to machine.

The OD will be 3.890” (+0.001” / -0.000”) x ID 3.476” (+0.001” / -0.000”) x 3-3/8” long. (Remember - this is a 0.030" under crank)

It will have a hole for the oil input from the header feed and a drain hole & groove at the rear where the screw thread is on the crank journal. Where the screw thread is it will be a slightly larger bore. I’ll also put the notches in at the split joint so it locks into the housing.

Maybe!

Bill Glenn
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Are you messing with me or serious? engine bearings are not made of aluminum. they are a combination of steal,copper,tin,nickle,and babbit.I never seen or herdof anybody doing that.I have a lot of old equipment that bearings are no longer avalable,and there is compenys out there that rebabbet or make new from your old ones.

The main bearings in a John Deere 730 are Aluminum. This I know for a fact since I just replaced them. I have two other tractors that spun a bearing and we polished the same way as Bill. A 4020 JD in 1983 and a 420 JD in 1997. Both are still working without further repair.

Matt