That journal is looking better but it is still to rough....at least there are no deep gouges.

Kind of thought that pin might have come from the balancer shaft but it is supposed to be tapered, not straight. You need to get the right one if what you have is a straight pin, that's probably why it came out.

Would agree, under the circumstances where the pump failed and did not have a chance to circulate the particles there is an excellent chance for recovery....however it is a gamble. Only takes one particle in the wrong place to initiate a failure.

The oil passage for the rear main comes from the exterior manifold, into the rear main and then to the last rod journal so you have a pretty good chance for cleaning and isolating any contamination. It also appears to be straight drilled with no welch plugs or blind pockets.

I would do for myself exactly what you are doing and I expect it will be ok, but I would like to see a better finish on the rear journal. (haven't seen the the rod journal)

Also what did you see in checking the camshaft/pump drive gears?

Old Magnet wrote:

"Also what did you see in checking the camshaft/pump drive gears?"

Reply:

The gear is in good shape although there is a miss-wear pattern on the teeth probably due to being slighty too low about the centerline of the cam shaft.

your progress looks good so far, having done similar repair on different engines . We built an oil pump that could be driven with a big electric drill , hooked that thru a filter and made an adapter to the oil ports on the block that way we could flush the passages and more importantly the crank with clean oil before reassembly, it is kind of messy but nice insurance. On that project I would run some oil thru the passages to the rear main , and then roll the bearing in , a little more oil , then the lower and cap ,now the oil should flow to the throw , flush that and button it up , a litle more fresh oil to every thing else and your away . Best of luck
Grizz

Bill,
Is the gear wear pattern even all the way round....I was wondering if there was evidence of a shock loading to one or more gear teeth....but that was when the wayward steel pin was suspect replacement for the brass unit that was found to be installed (but sheared).

Bill,
Value highly any interest from any family members working on this old iron. There is a lot more going on here than just polishing a journal. Make sure she is there when you fire the engine for the first time.

Back in my hotrod years, I'd polish the crank after it was ground by wrapping a length of crocus cloth around a journal, then wrapping a long leather shoe lace over that over that with two turns of the lace, grab the ends of the lace and just like polishing boots, pull back and forth. Maybe it was overkill but with the old flathead Ford engines, attention to detail paid off.

2U wrote:
Make sure she (daughter Andrea) is there when you fire the engine for the first time

Reply:
Great idea – I’ll make it a point to have her on the spot!


Soapy & Ol Grump,

I have some crocus cloth so I’ll give a try and see what it looks like.


Old Magnet wrote:

“I was wondering if there was evidence of a shock loading to one or more gear teeth....”

After reading what you said I examined it closely and it looks fine. Only some miss-wear on the teeth due to the height not being correct / on the C/L of the cam shaft.

Today I spent time cleaning up the oil pump & balancer parts. They are all in excellent shape.

On Friday I ordered a set of all aluminum Clevite bearing inserts – 0.030” oversize (or undersize how ever you want to look at it). I'll have those items this coming week and with any luck reassembly will start this weekend (!?!!?).


Question: is there a bottom end gasket set / part number that I can order from Caterpillar? What I need are the oil pump gaskets, oil pan gaskets and inspection cover gaskets.


Here are a few pictures of todays work before we sat down to Easter dinner.

Picture number 1: is two thirds of my beloved brass oil pump drive / shear pin (the other 1/3 I had to drill out to find the alignment so I could drive out the rest)

Picture number 2: is cleaned parts

Picture number 3: what made me stop cleaning parts

.

Looks good, including the table spread:)

Do you have the manual and instructions for the timing procedure for the balancer?

I don't show a listing just for bottom end gaskets...looks like you will have to go the individual route.

Old Magnet wrote:
Do you have the manual and instructions for the timing procedure for the balancer?

Reply:
I do have the manuals but haven't read that section yet.

There is a timing mark (letter A) on the balancer drive gear and I assume it matches another letter / timing mark on the mating gear.

Bill Glenn

From what I can gather the oil that enters the crank shaft at each of four the main bearings through the header tube on the side of the engine.

Each of the main bearings have a angled hole drilled between the main bearing and the connecting rod journal beside it.

With that said, the only oil holes in the crank to be cleaned out are four straight (angled) holes between the mains and the rods.

I should be able to do a good rinse job on each of these passages using solvent and a long q-tip.

For some reason I thought the crank had a “snaking” hole through it making it impossible to clean out any metal chips.

Is my thinking correct on this?