"Old wrote:

how's the other side:)

I don't EVEN wanta think about that right now......

Seriously, when I get this side done, I will pull the guards off the sprocket on the left and get a bar between the trackframe and the spokes and see if there is any slack.

As a side note, this one had been leaking inside the sprocket pretty bad. I am hoping the loose bearings was the cause of that. We will see.

Left side only has a slight leak, nothing like the right.

Thanks again - dd

I have been reading all the post's with some interest, once I stripped down both f/drives on a D6D (this was about 15 years ago) and I had the same old caper, the nut would not move, the slide section would not slide on both adjusters, I did the heat thing ,the cold thing , the hammer thing, the press thing , dont forget I have the right kit for the job ,(C,spanners / press, + thick arm) but I could not shift anything even the slightest amount, after about 2 hard days of effort , I had to scrap both housings and fit new parts ,N/O/E, they did not cost to much, I lost 2 days pay struggling with these items, so I am very carefull not to repeat the fiasco, I could not offer any good advice ,as I had " Failed in my task ". I Bow to the Alpha Male , well done.
tctractors

DD - Yes, the leak would almost certainly have been caused by the loose bearing.
Check the metal-to-metal seal faces to see if they are still in good shape (they should have a polished line about 1/8"-3/16" in from the edge where they have been mating) .. and ensure the sealing line doesn't show any damage along its contact area.

Replace those toric rubber rings (Cat recommend they be replaced every time they are dismantled), and you'll be right to go. New rubber rings give the necessary flexibility to the steel sections of the seals, and allow them to compensate for any movement.
Don't forget a good lather of nickel anti-seize when the cage and nut go back together. In fact, every single thread in the track frame benefits from anti-seize .. and you'll really appreciate it .. if you're the one who has to take it apart again, sometime in the future ..

Tony - I think we've all 'been there - done that' when it comes to being defeated by parts that won't play the game. The worst thing I dread, is threads 'picking up' when unscrewing .. whether it's just bolts, or something bigger and more expensive.
What is infuriating, is knowing that a sniff of anti-seize would have eliminated it, if it had been applied at assembly in the factory.
No doubt, some mean-fisted bean counter got promoted, over saving $1000 worth of anti-seize annually, by banning it from the factory ..

With one small deviation,
The 9u used variations of the old type bellows seals unless fitted with conversion parts to get to the metal floating ring upgrades.
Yes, where was anti-seize when ya needed it????

tctractors - well......I couldn't a done it without all the good help I got here, on ACME and from my buddy (he is in his 70s) who is an old Catskinner.

I was suprised in looking at some old D6C parts he had that the nut/cage/holder all look just like these 9U parts.

OZ - if I ever do get this nut/cage where it will thead together, I had already decided I would antisieze it back together.

Thanks again -

Some years ago in U.K. workshops before the Copper slip invention, we had to use Flowers of Sulpher mixed with engine oil as a coating for bolts, this was very important in the Open cast Coaling days, I would have used this gunk in the last 10 years a few times, as there is still a few old boys swear by its undoing quality, I myself think the copper slip , or engine oil is O.K.
tctractors.

Here is the parts breakdown for the final seals upgrade for the 9U.

OM - My apologies .. I clean forgot the 9U still used the bellows seals in the final drives.

I got the cage/nut threads chased out yesterday and put it all together. It sure was a good feeling to see that spanner nut turning and the bearings adjusting up and getting tight.

After tightening the bearings up, I checked the sprocket and it is tight, no movement.

Now, the only thing that will make this better is if tightening up the sprocket will make the inside bellows seal quit leaking......

OM as soon as those flange bolts come in I will finish it up.

Thanks again guys for all the help. I have had a lot of experience on equipment and mechanical things, but it's always nice get advice from someone who has been there/done that when working on something new.

As Koo says, the computer is a great thing.

dd

yes DD, i know exactly what would have happened if you didn't have a computer. the torch would have came out, then the big hammer then a bigger hammer. once a whole pile of parts on the shop floor with a quote from the cat dealer. then the cat would have been shoved outside until you cooled down and the wife quit nagging about your junk pile on tracks. after about 3 years and all the good parts taken off by you neighbours who just borrow things. the scrap man drives by and asks the wife about the cat, since you are at work, she makes the managment disiccion and the cat is gone when you get home from work.

shall i continue????

thansk