I have the manuals, so yes I knew it turned ccw.

And, the book shows the spanner, but at this point I don't know if that would do it. I am putting a LOT of bind on that nut.

As always thanks for the help.

dd

Try tapping (well, a lot harder than tapping) the nut around with a shop hammer and a drift pin of some type. The tapping may help loosen it up, you may also have to go back and forth. Maybe have someone keep pressure on it with the prybar while you hit it.

Sometimes applying lots of force to only one side of a ring will deform it slightly and make it bind. The spanner catches on a couple different points and spreads the load better.

I don't have one either.

Hi DD,
There aren't a whole lot of options to getting the nut to move.
You could pull the whole bearing cage assembly (another adventure) so that you are away from bearing and seal so's you could pour the heat n beat to the nut but hanging on to the assembly is a new adventure. My worst one was pulled and placed in my 100 ton press to hang on to it while working it over. I did eventually win:)

Thanks OM

I have an friend here who is an old retired Cat skinner. He echoed what you said about pulling the entire cage assembly including nut. I didn't realize I could do that.

I guess I will try that next. Maybe once off I can use dynamite to get it apart. At least I will be able to see the condition of the bearings etc.

Thanks - dd

Hey Dirt Dog, it has been over 30 years since I last helped work on a Cat.

Have you got a air impact hammer?? Am not sure about how much room that you have to work in that area.

Those things hit hard and furious. It would hit hard enough to rock the nut back and forth to loosen it.

If nothing else, you can drill a verticle line of holes in the nut and use the chisel attachment to split the nut.

Sears shows to have two types available.

Craftsman Medium Duty Impact Hammer - $40.00
Sears item #00919897000 Mfr. model #19897

.401 in. chisel shank opening accepts a variety of chisel head designs. Hardened alloy steel barrel for long tool life. Durable, lightweight polymer housing reduces vibration and fatigue. Spring retainer for quick, simple chisel changes. Delivers 3,000 blows per minute for fast, no hassle cutting and hammering. Applications include chipping, riveting, piercing, trimming, cutting, and peening. 2-5/8 in. stroke, 90 PSI recommended air pressure, 4 cfm average air consumption, 3/8 in. hose size. Always use hardened chisel bits with .401 shank.

Chicago Pneumatic Heavy Duty Impact Hammer with Case - $60.00
Sears item #00918904000 Mfr. model #CP715K

Delivers extra-long 3-1/2 in. stroke for more power. 2100 powerful blows per minute for Rivet and bolt cutting, driving bushings and overall front-end work. Built-in muffler minimizes exhaust sound.

Includes 4 piece chisel set:
Includes straight punch, Rivet cutter, cold chisel, edging chisel
.401 round shank chisels. Hardness 50-55 rockwell. S5 tool steel
Online / Catalog Exclusive

Those things can make the steel fly and also are loud. Suggest eye and hearing protection and gloves. Lots of vibration there.

"Harvuskong" wrote:

Hey Dirt Dog, it has been over 30 years since I last helped work on a Cat.

Have you got a air impact hammer??

Hey there Harvuskong, thanks for the ideas. Better than that, why don't you get a bunch of the SFT guys together and come down here and lend a hand?

I don't know about an air impact hammer, I might try that, I have a MAC. Thing is, this "nut" I'm working on is about 8 - 9 inch diameter.

Thanks - dd

"Old wrote:

In poor mans fashion, probably not, but it's not the sort of thing I could live with:D

It's a small point but I change all my 5/8 housing mounting bolts to known quality grade 8 flange head bolts with either no lock washers or 17-7 PH s.s. belleville disc springs (washers). They don't get loose again.

I found the flange head bolts. My local JD dealer can order about whatever kind of bolt there is, so I had him get 'em for me.

Thanks - dd

"Dirt wrote:

Hey there Harvuskong, thanks for the ideas. Better than that, why don't you get a bunch of the SFT guys together and come down here and lend a hand?
Thanks - dd

It might be faster if you went over there. Getting registered over here is a bit slow at the moment until the adminstrator here gets caught up with the backlog that he has.

AS for the size of the nut, should not make any difference. Just start the rat a tat tat and vibration effect of the impact hammer on the highest part possible of the nut for leverage effect.

Do not know the availability of the nut if you have to split it as per my other suggestion.

Surely the last man to work on it did not use Loctite Red on it!!

I have this thing broken down in components now at least. I got a gear puller and pulled the hub and bearing assembly off.

I am pretty sure that my slack was in the bearing adjustment. The sprocket is tight on the hub, no hub splines are visible, and the sprocket spline is "out" a little, so I think I am good there.

The sprocket nut was loose and the lock is gone. My Cat skinner buddy here thinks he has a lock for, if he don't any ideas where I can find one?

I pressed the housing off the bearing cage, and also took the seal out of the nut, so now I have the nut and cage sitting on my workbench as a unit. I guess I will start soaking it and heating n beating and I'll try the air hammer on it until it decides to turn. I don't see any Locktite........

Here's some pics.

Thanks again for everyone's help - dd

Hi DD,
Your doing good:D
The part number for the lock is 3F1960. Should be able to get it from your local Cat dealer.
Never had much luck with those buzz wrenches on Cat sized equipment other than chipping paint. LOL
Did see a set of cylinder liners knocked out of a Cletrac with a Jack Hammer one time;)

Just now seeing your pictures. That adjuster nut looks pretty crusty alright.
The rest looks to be in pretty good shape.
That big chain/strap wrench I see should come in handy. Just need to anchor that assembly so's you can use it.
Got a press???