DD - Here's what I'd be doing. Cut a circle of ply that fits neatly up inside the nut, the same size as the cage. Support it with some blocking on the bench, so that it's the same height as where the ends of the cage threads are now.
Drop the nut and cage over the supported ply, so that the ply is a neat fit up against the end of the cage.
Procure 3 or 4 short lengths of heavy flat bar that are a neat fit in the gaps between the nut lugs. Stand them at an angle, so they are inserted in the gaps between the lugs, one end, and the other end touches the bench. Weld them to the steel plate.
Fill the inside of the cage with a bag of dry ice. Wrap that chain wrench around the cage .. add some assistance with a big cheater .. and heave away.
If that doesn't make it move, you may have a problem with the threads galling, or "picking up". Let's hope it doesn't come to that.

I was thinking more along the lines of wrapping that chain wrench around the nut. Don't want to bugger up the cage od, thats your bearing surface.
Correction: Thats the cage holder slip fit surface, not quite as critical.

As far as details for doing it using the press I had to come up with a step plate or something the right od (I think I had another bearing race slightly smaller) that would slip inside the cage so that your just squeezing the race and shoulder in the press. This set up has the bell end up to where you can use whatever method you like, heat, beat, chain wrench, spanner or what ever. If your real handy with the torch you could even cut out a wrench ( a la KoO) or a flat bar version sorta like Oz is referring to. I'm sure you will figure something out.

Here is what I have done so far.

I took an old piece of 60 roller chain, (I have some 80 may switch to that), wrapped it around the cage and ran a bolt through 2 links and cinched it down tight.

Then I clamped the chain, just below the bolt, in a vise. Now I have the cage/nut held pretty well and the axle axis is horizontal. I think I may back that off and use some belting between the chain and cage for protection and more grip.

I heated and beat quit a bit last night, didn't get anywhere. Last I put heat to the cage all the way around inside right at the threads, and then walked away from it and let it cool. I know that's not the right place to heat being it would expand inside, but at this point I am just trying to break the bond between them. I am also trying to drown it in penetrating oil.

BTW, my buddy had a spanner wrench so I have that in my arsenal now.

OZ, I am located pretty rural, no one close that sells dry ice. I am keeping it in mind though as I may try that at some point if I don' t get something else to work first.

I plan on attacking it again today.

Thanks - dd

Nothing wrong with heating/cooling the inside, it's those expansion-shrinking cycles that are needed to break the bond. How hot are you heating the nut, usually takes dull red heat to do any good. Don't get to carried away or you may weld/gaul the threads. I would also not advise doing any quenching as you will wind up changing the metallurgy. No press huh??

Forgot: The press frame I have will handle 100Ton but so far I only own a 50 Ton ram. As I recall it was in the 40-50 ton range to hold it from turning.

If you can't get dry ice and you want to try that get a CO2 fire extinguisher or other source.

"Old wrote:

Nothing wrong with heating/cooling the inside, it's those expansion-shrinking cycles that are needed to break the bond. How hot are you heating the nut, usually takes dull red heat to do any good. Don't get to carried away or you may weld/gaul the threads. I would also not advise doing any quenching as you will wind up changing the metallurgy. No press huh??

Forgot: The press frame I have will handle 100Ton but so far I only own a 50 Ton ram. As I recall it was in the 40-50 ton range to hold it from turning.

OM I only heated it enough to see it start turning red, then I would move the gas axe to the next spot. I didn't get it hot enough to do any melting, but knew I needed to get enough on it to work on the thread bond. Don't know if this is gonna work or not. My buddy thinks the threads may be gaulded. But......he hasn't looked at it yet, and what threads I can see on the inside of the nut and outside the cage look fine.

I do have a press, think it's a 20 Ton, probably not enough but I guess it might work. Another buddy has a 50 ton..I may look into that this PM, but I am not quite following you on how you held it in the press.

Thaks - dd

On the pressing.
You will need to have something of the right diameter to come in behind the race that is left in the cage (as though you were pressing in the race).
Depending on your type of press you will need one with a push rod that will reach down inside the cage to whatever you are using to press on the race or if it is a flat face ram a spacer will be required (heavy wall tube or...) to reach.
The press is now used as a clamp, allowing you to work on the nut which is in the up position. Wrenching would be horizontal.

"Dirt wrote:

OZ, I am located pretty rural, no one close that sells dry ice. I am keeping it in mind though as I may try that at some point if I don' t get something else to work first.

I plan on attacking it again today.

Thanks - dd

Dairies do a lot of AI breeding, that requires the use of Liquid Nitrogen jugs for cold semen storage. If there is a ABS Dealer in Stephenville area, you might be able to work deal for some. In the past, they have had routes to dairies and others using AI services selling semen and servicing the AI jugs.

Walmart or HEB, I think carry Dry Ice.

Either Dry Ice or Liquid Nitrogen will require gloves for handling.

Both are plenty below zero. Liquid stuff will result in faster freezing due to contact, I think.

Use wet cardboard or something of that nature for a mold in containing the liquid on or in the part that you want chilled, it should freeze solid and hold the liquid in the location wanted.

I think the heating inside last night and then letting it cool + the drowing in penetrant I gave it did the trick.

I put in back in the vise today, clamped with the 60 roller chain around the cage. Got the spanner wrench on it and didn't really have to get rough. It started turning and came all the way off. -

Down side is the threads. The cage threads look really good with a couple of dings, nothing serious.

The nut threads are a different story. About 1/2 or 2/3 of the threads are good, starting from the inside edge toward the seal edge. Then next to the seal they really are beat up. I don't see any gaulding, just abused by parts coming loose in there or whatever.

I am taking them to Stephenville Monday. There is a first class machine shop there, and I am going to see if the can put both pieces in a lathe and chase the threads out. If they can do that, the nut can be salvaged, as there should still be plenty of threads, and the tighter it gets the more thread there is holding.

Thanks for all your help, I hope to have it together before long - dd

Good show:D
Your on the road to recovery.....actually it gave up rather easily, must of been the right combination....how's the other side:)

DD - Good work. Sounds like your major problem was the threads pounded together, causing jamming, rather than a corrosion problem.

OM is right on the mark with checking the other side. If you have two identical components (steering clutches, final drives, etc) .. and one is in poor shape .. 9 times out 10, the other is in precisely the same condition, or not far behind it.

Always remember to tighten sprocket nuts on EVERY Cat, every 1000 hrs .. along with an oil change, and a flush with diesel, to remove any chunks that help to accelerate wear.