Hi Mark,
My intent was to get you started on what to search for on the discussion forum. There is a lot of info here from all sorts. I often find answers in pieces and parts from reading multiple posts and putting it together. It’s a slow build for me, and I’m guessing you’ll find your answers. Keep digging👍.

Keep safe.

What machines have you rebuilt?

Not much and not sure what “rebuilt” refers to, but on my D4:
Steering clutches, starting engine, starter pinion. Quite a bit of work on my flywheel clutch, precombustion chamber replacement, decompression cams and other parts replaced/andjusted. Other odds and ends as they come with owning old equipment. Quite a few other items I’m hoping to get to.

212 Grader 9T:
Got it running after 22 years idle sitting outside. It’s been sitting for a couple years and have it running again now. Both motors free and run. Win for me is that I’ve got both engines under shed.

Ford gasser 971 SOS with loader:
In frame engine rebuild, SOS reconditioning. Not too deep on the SOS, a lot going on there and not too sharp on that system, but it functions well.

Ford 8N:
Currently split, but kept inside. Set as a project with my son. Time will tell on that one.

IH gasser 656 with loader:
Rear brakes, both sides. PITA project with everyting that had to be taken off to get to them.

Farmall gasser 560:
Carb rebuild, hydraulic system service.

Ford 100 Custom, 1978:
Engine rebuild……many years ago. Wish I still had that truck.

Thanks for asking. Fun little stuff and other odds and ends. I don’t earn a living with, so as long as I’ve a little barn space and cash to start and complete, I pick and choose and don’t need to rush.

I’m selling the 212 Grader, so let me know if you’re interested. Just not a project I’m too interested in.

Keep safe, and again, thanks for your interest.

Hi, Mark Riendeau.
I'm no 'ex-spurt' either but I agree with your summation that the mechanical puller/pusher won't have the necessary 'grunt' to re-install the hubs and just HOW would you measure the torque that you were putting on the device to get to 20-25 tons anyway? I suspect that that would be a LOTTTTA torque.

From past experience, some Cat dealers will hire out a Cat device to 'shady tree workshops' and 'back-yarders' for this sort of work.

Like you, I would be looking at doing it once by doing it right.

Just my 0.02.

Hi Mark and Deas, calculating the setting and being close would be difficult to say the least, puller/pusher binding threads, burrs, high spots, lube or not, etc is not really able to be accounted for, in the past on draw bar eyes that need a torque up we have warmed the eye bolt then torqued with out a measuring instrument of any kind apart from a 1 inch drive air impact gun, they never moved or come loose in-between 2 or 3 trailers on the highway, hub warming could help as long as it is completely warmed to avoid exploding, with local heat, the hydraulic system is the best choice and I would say most accurate with or with out any factors above.

Im with you on not liking the guess factor and a bad key is the result of not being 100%, going back in and fixing a key is not the nicest thing to go thru, done this on my grandmothers Massy Harris, I had to use an over size woodruff key and file to shape of bad key way in the shaft and then to the rear wheel hub to fit, yes PIA.

Im not sure if Fat Dan is attending the discussions, he may have the knowledge and experience your after as he collects graders from miles/kilometres around his home, I think he is the club grader man,

There's a simple torque/pressure formula. Making allowances for various imperfections, etc..I'd use the maximum torque required. And yes, the addition of heat to aid fit. However, that's even if the mechanical push/puller is capable. It's odd that the manual doesn't address reinstallation with this push/puller. Milton Cat does not lend or rent tooling. They once did but liability stopped it. I've done this job before on my 12E and 120 14K with the correct Cat hydraulic push/puller. It's just not available to me now. I can get Cat to pull the hub but the Cat tooling is made for a hub with wheel weights. Not having one available, Im not sure it's made to adjust to the narrower attachment points on the earlier model 70Ds/8T's..And Cat has NO ONE with experience to tell me this. I'm just not ready for them to figure it out at $180/hr. (yes, they'll charge me for this...nice, eh) Or screw up and then charge me $206/hr. during a service call. Cat has a serious issue with competent mechanics, now. I have no faith in them. I'm just wanting to get this done with what I have, do it correctly and be done. But, if I find I have to "adjust" and take time to modify my push/puller hydraulically, I will.

Hi Mark, as dear as poison my mum would say, yes we have the 180 here for farms and 220 for anyone else, quality of the equipment is good just the people behind it make you wonder, my friend was with the local dealer and left after 2 years, he had enough, I would go with making a good unit to last out this one with a port power to get it done easy and right pressure, it does make it a lot easier with a good friend in the dealerships at times I can say from experience, most of the time I look for anything that comes up in market place and grab it as one day you know it will do what you need to do

Anyone havd a 12F service manual and parts book. I believe the 12F's had the same spindle and wheel hub. If so. The manual should have the hydraulic push/puller part number and adapters numbers.

Here's the info from  the 12F and 14E Service Manual. I don't have the Parts Manual.