Pony decided it wasn't going to start for me today. No idea if it just doesn't like the rainy weather today or what but haven't had an issue at all until today it's strange.

Hi, V14.
It'z 'ackshully' not a bad idea to cover the pony motor in advance if you know that rain is coming. I have never heard that Cat ever gave a guarantee that those magnetos were completely moisture proof. Ditto with cold weather. I worked with a 17A D7 for a while that was about the most temperamental pony engine I ever met (10% temper and 90% MENTAL).

Cover it overnight and you stood a chance of getting it running in about 3/4 of an hour. Don't cover it and you were pretty much guaranteed 1 1/2 hours of cranking the next morning.

I didn't stay long on that job.

Just my 0.02.

Gave it another go and got it started. My fuel valve assembly turned in the tank and over torqued the nut/ferrule on the gas line so it was leaking out and not getting to the carb.It was indeed the right brake causing the problem. still won't return on its own but its movable finally.

Now I need to learn how to actually push stuff. Got it up the hill (roads built by loggers with an old d6, alot longer and steeper than the photo makes it look) tried to push some dirt and a stump. Got some dirt moving as long as I didn't over do it but the stump wouldn't budge even though it was small. I stayed in 1st gear for the day. happy to finally get this thing up the hill.

Hi, V14.
Great stuff. Stumps can be a PITA to remove - start by trying to push them with the blade just low enough to get a solid bite on the stump. Ease up to the stump until you have a good contact and then pull the master clutch in firmly, being careful not to stall the engine. Try this 3 or 4 times while watching the ground under the blade for any signs of movement. It also can help if you can try this from several different angles to see if there is more movement from other directions.

If that doesn't work, it'z usually time to start digging around the stump to break some roots.

Gelignite works well too - and is easier on the dozer. LOL.

When learning to work dirt with a dozer, plan on LOTZA small corrections with the blade rather than a few big corrections. Also learn how your blade looks on the ground on level ground over the front of the tracks to know when you are cutting level.

Learn to 'feel' the machine through your favorite rump steak so that you can learn to anticipate what the machine is going to do next. For me, the trick has always been to work at keeping the blade cutting or spreading where I wanted it to regardless of what the tractor did.

AND PRACTICE

Just my 0.02.

Stumps are plentiful over here so I will surely learn how to get them. Getting some level ground will probably be much harder for me. I learned the dozer doesn't like pushing up hill with the blade down in first, will probably stick with downhill pushing as I go between levels and try and smooth the roads.

Photo -
Not the best to show the Cat so I am not too certain of what I am not seeing.

Radiator/grill guard - an absolute must if you plan on pushing that brush/slash.
Belly pan - it has been a common OOPS to have a stump roll out with a portion contacting the engine pan - OUCH!
Operator screen - they are common on logging Cats for a reason

Maybe some others will chime in here - with cable unit dozer, be cautious about having the blade "fall" when backing away from an object, it creates a tremendous impact on the undercarriage- equalizer spring as an example.

Stay Safe!
CTS

I am still searching for a grille for the machine but so far no luck. May have to figure out a way to create a makeshift unit.

Belly pan is on there good but I will monitor that as well as the blade dropping. Not quite sure what an operator screen is unless you are referring to the wire mesh I see around some canopies.

Cage around the ROPS on logging or fire Cats is of heavy material and is intended to protect the operator from being hit or otherwise hurt from materials coming into the operator station.

Illustrate my concern ---
When I was a youngster in grade school, a neighbor was pushing cottonwood logs with a TD-9 IHC. NO CAGE, NO ROPS, bare seat. Pushing a tree with a crotch (fork) it rolled and fell back on the dozer, breaking his back and jaw. The others nearby cut him out of the machine with a chainsaw and rushed him to the hospital. Lucky he survived!

Logging, dozer work, sidehills, stumps all present unique hazards - there is no substitute for experience and diligent caution. KNOW YOUR LIMITS.

CTS

I won't be pushing any full trees, only intend to push stumps and dirt. If i do need to remove trees I'd cut them down first.  Still I'll be very limited while learning how to use the machine properly, I have no time limit on getting my project done and understand it will take quite a bit of operation before I'll be capable of doing more than minor dirt moving. Thanks for the advice though, wish I had some seasoned operators nearby to show me the proper ways but best I have is here and youtube.

Hi, V14.
Whereabouts do you live? It is possible that there is a member near you who might be willing to come over and help you get the hang of it.

Failing that, don't be bashful about asking 'kwestyuns', here on the forum. There are some people infesting this place who have a clue. Some may even have two.

Just my 0.02.