Blade is going down in the first because it should have never gone up it was not engaged. The second video it stayed put until I pushed the lever back.

Based on that description I'd assume the plates got stuck together since the issue wasnt present before it got hauled to me but it could be tight clutch as well. Ill follow the videos thanks.

Hi, V14.
If you look at the first video in full screen at around 6.47, you might be able to see a tiny hole in the arm that is connected to the brake spring and which releases the brake when you move the control lever outward. It is about 1/2-way up that arm. That hole is the index mark for setting the neutral position for the control lever. When the brake release roller is in place - he is shown removing it between about 3.30 and 4.02 - the grease point in the roller should be in line with that index hole perpendicular to the brake release arm.

This is crucial to adjusting these CCUs. As mentioned earlier, set the brake spring so it will hold the blade up, then set the neutral position using the two nuts on the long threaded rod attached to the brake band and lastly adjust the clutch.

Just my 0.02.

Hadn't had a chance to watch it until just now, second video was very helpful, hopefully I can adjust it without taking the side cover off like that guy did. 

Tightened my inlet and the oil leak is gone but my pressure is weak now. Prior to the swap oil pressure read at 30 (gauge goes about half with no marking then 10, 20, 30 at the far right) now it only reads around 10. I am not seeing even a drop of oil coming from anywhere on the cooler or elsewhere. Is reading around 10, right at the center mark of the gauge adequate? Sorry didn't take a picture and am not with the dozer at the moment.

I tried to adjust the CCU as well, seemed to make it worse. I can't see the pin in that center window, so I left the brake for the moment and just tried to adjust free travel only. When I turned it counter clockwise the handle locked up if the bolt was tightened, if left loose it just rotated the big square fitting back. I tried to turn it clockwise and it seemed to be right at 5 1/2" free travel before engaging so I started it up to see what changed. Pulled the main clutch blade raised way faster, dropped it back and raised it multiple times. Then I left it up via the brake dropped it back down and it didn't raise anymore when I pulled main clutch even when I pulled the CCU lever. I wanted to move it a little bit so I reversed it with the blade down for 10 feet or so. Then the blade raised again on its own when the main clutch was engaged. Certainly confused on this one.  

Disregard last, blade is good to go now, adjusted the brake and then the travel as described and realized I was looking for a zerk not some pin to be centered in the window. Glad that is functional but now the new oil cooler has already developed a leak in the fins. Did not start until after running it to test the blade. I don't want to swap it out again, but I don't know if I'm getting enough pressure to keep from damaging the engine. Photo of the gauge attached. It was up in the 30 range and then dropped to midway at 10. Shut it down and went to double check no leak and sure enough a pool forming on the fins.

Still hoping to find the proper psi the oil should be at on this 3t. The only thing I can find is this page from the operators manual but my gauge is obviously different. Is 10psi at idle adequate? There was one other form I saw that stated some machines ran as low as 5psi at idle and ranged up to 30 under load. I'm thinking it's fine and the other cooler was leaking so bad it was pushing 30 at idle just to lubricate the engine possibly but I'm hoping someone here can confirm I'm at a safe range so I don't destroy my engine.

  V14, With your oil pressure would the engine have been running long enough to get some temperature in the oil/engine? some drop in pressure is obviously normal when oil becomes warm along with components, the issue would be if there is enough flow/output from pump to ensure a good supply rate, with the cat gauges they only give a range, basically meaning it has or hasn't oil pressure (not a specific rate or amount), I have asked about the coolant temp range in the past and got "it shows range" after buying 2 gauges and they were about 30 degrees on the indicator pointer different on face of gauge.

Forgot to mention that, yes when it was warming up it was all the way over to the 30 area and after dropping it to normal idle after the recommended time it went to 10. Just worried me since the old cooler maintained 30 at idle but might have just been leaking too much and over working the pump.

This is the document I was referring to that said psi at idle could be lower than 5psi. It seems ill be fine i moved it around a bit and had no issues but being my first diesel dozer i didn't want to assume it was similar to a car that the halfway mark on the gauge was correct for idle.

It could be possible that the old cooler was partly blocked this may have helped raise the pressure in the system? as normal keep an eye on the gauges while operating, look for different signs, before oil changes check the pressure and again after you will see a difference, the difference will be less after working for a period of time,

Hi, V14.
It is quite normal for the engine oil pressure to fall pretty low in these older cat engines once they are warmed up. If you are worried about it, you could get a master pressure gauge hooked up to it which would give you the actual pressure reading instead of a 'guide' like the standard Cat gauge.

I spent a fair bit of time onna Cat 966C 4WD loader which showed ZERO oil pressure at low idle when it was warm but never seized up. It went up into the green when working at anything much above an idle.

Just my 0.02.