The Steering clutch inner hub, steering clutch drive and driven plates and outer clutch and brake drum and brake band all comes out as one unit, you need to be careful that the brake band does not slip off the brake/clutch drum when you lift the unit out., or the brake drum can also slide off. The steering clutch is a multi plate clutch similar to the transmission clutches and similar materials.

Wombat

Cooler is out. Next question is where can I get a reasonably priced one? Dealer is out. I see several listed online but trying to pinch pennies here. For all I know, the trans is already toast.

A good local raditor shop can pressure test and sodder the leaking tubes
Use a small 1/4 dia cable in a loop 24 “ long and couple of cableclamps and 5 or 6 “ 5/ 16 or 3/8 “ bolts hooked in the brand clamps to draw the band tight around the drum to remove and install the steering clutch and drum assembly

Is repair of the cooler even advisable? I cannot see anything too obvious yet but I would think with such a volume of coolant in the trans, someone should show up. The ends look reasonable. Not severe corrosion, etc.

I asked around about reman or rebuilt units and no one seems to do it. Seems like a lot of wasted iron to pitch the whole thing but I certainly won't just grab a used one and go. I want new, reman, or otherwise tested with some assurance we have the problem solved for good.

Hi bobby1,
25 US Gal should be around the low mark on the stick so would be OK for gentle tests.
The trans and steer packs are sintered bronze material bonded to the relevant disc assem.
The brake band material is riveted to the bands but can be bonded as well for severe applications.

The bands will be one piece and are used, when slung correctly, to sling and clamp the band to the brake drum and then to remove the steer clutch assem.
  If the band is not rigged correctly it will be distorted and rendered useless unless re-rolled--also if distorted the lining rivets can be pulled thru the linings and render the lining piece useless too.
We used to tie some tie wire thru the clutch and drum to stop separation of the drum and clutch for both removal and refitting as Wombat describes.
 Once the assembly is out enough before lifting any great height there will be working clearance to secure/un-secure the unit this data should be in the relevant Manual section.

Oil loss at the clutch release piston and its hub can be substantial if the bevel shaft bearings were loose or the the piston is fitted back to front--this is where for a short test the steer oil pressure system can be blocked off as described above. Piston is correctly fitted if the 2 puller bolt threaded holes are visible on the face of said piston.

It should be born in mind that most Dealers will likely not have personnel who are familiar with machines this age.
Also as it does not have a computer port to tell them what is wrong.

You can test the cooler core by fitting blanking plates to the oil ports--one with a air line connected to it from a controlled pressure regulator.
Place the unit in a tub of water and apply pressure to around 30 psi from memory should be safe--a leak point may not show if the cracked tube or porous weld needs heat to allow the leak to occur--we used to send ours to a radiator shop that did our Cat work for testing--likely getting hard to find now.
If you find one tube leaking it could be blocked by various means for testing purposes until you see if you have a viable trans. etc. a sealed bolt and plates thru the tube may work in a pinch as was done in old time stem boiler tubes that leaked.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
 

Hi Team,
scans below are the Caterpillar Service Reporter article on Magnetic Screens I mentioned above :- Issue --3 1965.
OK, so it is some 40% of trapped material can be non-magnetic and not the 70% I thought--I as a 20 year old 4th year Apprentice at The Dealer when this came out--LOL

Interesting to revisit said article.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks so much guys! EDB, I am saving all your provided pages.

I do not plan to remove the clutches at this time. Due to the realization that the right final appears to NOT be leaking at the bevel shaft, that gives me some hope that the shaft bearings are still good. I feel it is wiser to get the machine running and see if we have proper pressure and function, and go from there, while also ensuring I do everything I can to stop further damage.

Right now I am machining some test plates to pressure up the cooler, more because I want to see what caused all this drama.

A good local raditor shop can pressure test and sodder the leaking tubes
Use a small 1/4 dia cable in a loop 24 “ long and couple of cableclamps and 5 or 6 “ 5/ 16 or 3/8 “ bolts hooked in the brand clamps to draw the band tight around the drum to remove and install the steering clutch and drum assembly
I am starting if someone intensionally or by mistake put coolant water in the transmission . If the cooler checks out not showing any leaks you may have to give this some thought

Well, I tested it. One tube is a big leaker. It is a tube within the chamber, not on the end. Can visually see the compromised area. Due to that, I think it would not be wise to reuse because others may quickly follow. It sucks having to spend on a new/reman cooler but it is just too much work to do this twice.

Can anyone help with finding a reasonably priced cooler or know a place that will reman this one? I don't intend to go through the dealer.

Hi Bobby1, I would be interested to know if you found the extensive information on this site useful, if so how would you feel about supporting the site by becoming a member for $40. This site is available due to the contributions of all the financial members and they would welcome you to join them and become a valued member.

Kind regards, Wombat