the correct lube for drilling, cutting and threading cast iron is beef or mutton fat when rendered down its called tallow. use plenty of it and drill slowly the tool should be doing about 50 rpm and stop and clear the chips regularly adding more lube each time, this also allows the tool to cool and not over heat done like this a bimetal holesaw is fine. just buy a decent brand like pferd or sutton or blu-mol.

you can also use a product called trefolex metal working fluid its like a thin paste mix well apply liberally.

I haven't seen tallow used as a cutting compound in over thirty years and I have never seen anyone recommend its use. It was always known as the poor mans cutting compound.
For drilling cast iron with a twist drill I wouldn't bother lubricating the drill. For tapping new cast iron I would not use a lubricant either but time hardened cast a little bit of lube won't hurt. Keep in mind that a hole saw is not an exact tool and you will most likely have a hole that is not perfect. When I did my 5R D6 I put the bell housing on a milling machine and milled the hole out. I machined the hole to be a factory fit for the starter motor and made sure the starter gear meshed correctly with the ring gear. Probably overkill but would be needed if the engine was being started several times a day.
Trefolex is also my preferred cutting compound. I use the paste for tapping and the liquid for drilling. I don't go much on the spray lube but it does seem to work OK. I don't agree that you need to use it liberally, you only need to dip the tap in the paste and it will be enough. Sutton taps and drills and Trefolex make a good combination in Australia.

Regards

Phil

Got starter hole started! 

Went slow and used dark pipe threading oil, seamed to work well. Drill died about 1/2” in. Will return with a heavy right angle drill and get it finished. 


 

It sure is nice to be able to sit back and watch someone else have some fun! Keep us posted for sure. At the present rate, you'll have it running by the evening! My mechanic always saves the "slugs" for me, and I use them for paperweights on on work bench.
The first CAT that I ever worked on needed steering clutches, release bearings, etc. The job was not too bad because I had a decent manual to reference.
Keep up the great work. JM

the secret to any job let the tool do the work dont force it. and yes good quality cast can be drilled dry i have done so my self due to the carbon content it self lubes to a degree. a bit of lube just speeds things along and increases tool life. yes some modern carbide tipped tools dont need lube. yes excess lube gets messy but id rather that than damaged tools or work piece.

and the ideal is to mount the bell housing in the mill and cut and drill using the mill so it can be spot on. I wish I had one. the finance minister wont let us acquire one. it really doesnt matter what lube you use as long as it works.

   

Huge thanks for all the input! Got it done and cranking!

Neil,

I don’t have exact part numbers. I went to local starter/motor shop and told them I needed a 42MT delco starter, 12v clockwise rotation. I showed him the canted snout and he ordered the bendix 220-12190R.

I just got it fired up today on the electric start. Used a 31-5 12v battery 950CCA with 40” 2awg cable. Cranked for a minute with decomposition leaver engaged to get oil/fuel pressure, the. Dropped decomp and she came to life!

Hi Neil (or anyone who might be able to help),
I'm over in Australia and I'm struggling to find the 198854 drive end housing that everyone uses for the starter conversions.  Amazon will send me the bendix and I can order the starter locally, but nobody here knows anything about that Delco housing.  Did you source it directly or go through a starter shop?

Thanks
Russell