Going to finally do it today, machine the hole for the electric start on the D6 9U. I have the CW 42MT starter but need the drive. I have studied Old Magnets web sight and read several posts and I think I'm ready! I would like to purchase a starter drive to do the job but torn as to which one 11 or 12 tooth. I was told by Pony Motor Specialists (I think there out of Texas) I could use ether one but preferably use the 12 tooth. I would think if I use all the measurements I have compiled from ACMOC there should be only one number of tooth drive I could or should use. I have used this sight before and have gotten what I would say very professional/experienced information. Which drive is (the correct one) and where do I find one and how much? Have a happy fathers day. Vic

I recommend this drive...
What are you using for the vertical distance to the large hole center? there are variations.
Also what drive end housing and lever housing are you using?
www.igotliquidated.com/ecommerce/154.html

Here's the latest template dimensions, preferred lever housing and drive end housing. Also if you use a button head hex drive cap screw and cut down allen wrench you do not have to grind fit for the one mounting bolt.

I did not drill starter hole this weekend, pull starting and having problems keeping engine running, freed up three stuck injection pump plungers, replaced fuel filters and flushed out housing, bleed out at injectors and engine runs on 6 cylinders for just a little bit then slowly dies, charge pressure never goes above 10psi. Removed charge pump, submerged in parts solvent and spun with 3/8 impact what I thought was a reasonable RPM and it would shoot solvent 3', also covered pressure port with my thumb and can't hold the pressure. Going re-install pump and run with remote fuel tank to see if fuel supply from the tank is the problem. If you have any other ideas please advise. As soon as I can get the engine to run good I'm going to add electric start. Here is what I have for starter and blue print.

Use the template that I posted. That is not the correct drive end housing and that lever housing will not give you the clearance needed to mount the starter.
If you start out with one of these starters it will have the correct lever housing to work from.

Awesome I will find different starter parts or fabricate, order the drive gear and use the latest template. Thank you so much! Any fuel ideas? Is there a charge pressure regulator or is that the fine spring and seat in the fuel intake manifold?

Old Magnet, Correct me if I'm wrong the web sight furnished for the drive shows 11T at the top of the page and 12T at the bottom.

Either the 11 tooth or 12 tooth drive works but the 11 tooth is preferred. At one time the 11 tooth was not available but that's not the case now.

Did you check the seat and the pressure relief valve disc. If they are not seating properly you will lose pressure. Also the spring needs to be in good condition.

Tried to order drive on line but they say I have to order by phone and there's no phone number? Have you seen that before?

Try accessing through here....
www.starterdrives.com/

How much fuel do you have in the tank? If it’s not full you may want to pressurize it by clamping a section of a tire inner tube with the valve stem in the center of it over the tank filler opening and blowing it up tight. This would eliminate air leaks on the suction side of the transfer pump as a source of your problems.

To check the flow from the tank you must take the fuel line loose before the lift pump since the gears are a tight mesh and you typically won’t get a lot of flow through them if the engine isn’t turning over. I usually just drop the inlet block that bolts onto the bottom of the transfer pump and see what the flow is like there. Good time to check the condition of the pressure relief valve poppet and spring. When the rubber seal on the poppet gets hard it quits sealing and pressure will drop. Pressure drop will be worse at idle or cranking speed than at full speed.

When the tractor dies, is there air to bleed in the top of the fuel filter tower? This would be checked by opening the bleed on the front of the tower top cover and watching down below where the drain tube ends at lower left front corner of the engine as the pony motor turns the diesel over with the throttle set to fuel off. Going to be hard to do if you’re pull starting it.

It’s also possible that you have a bad injector leaking compression back into the fuel line and pump gallery but you should notice a misfire that reoccurs as soon as you finish bleeding that injector. In bad cases, this can progress to air getting in the injection pumps for other cylinders.

A suction line/fuel supply leak would be more common and might be exacerbated by a clogged fuel line or tank valve, tank outlet etc. Might check that the fuel tank cap is venting properly so that you don’t have a vacuum in the tank when the engine dies.